My Freedom Ride- August 2012

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

3rd August 2012 : A vague plan came into my mind on how to utilize my off days from 11th to 20th August.

Kept on thinking for the whole night - where to go, whether I should ride in monsoons or avoid.

4th August evening : Spoke to Vaibhav who was in Mcleodganj on a solo ride and he updated me about rains there. Suddenly it reminded me of my ride from Batal to Rohtang Pass in 2009 when I had little rain protection gear and in freezing cold I managed to ride in heavy downpour. I don't know monsoon in South but that gut feeling knocked my brain and I thought - "When I could do it there, I can manage anything here".

Now my next concern was to complete my riding gear for rains and spot any random places on map and raid the roads connecting those places.
The places I picked were - Mumbai, Goa, Hampi.

So as of now, places I chose are - Mumbai, Goa, Hampi and anywhere from Hampi depending on rains, time, money left etc.

Mode of transport - Bullet Electra 5s: HR-03 J 2190. If you see me anywhere on this, stop me. I am a friendly guy :)
I call it as 'My freedom Ride' as I don't know anything about those routes and I will go there to explore, I haven't done any room bookings or anything else.

5th August: I got a rainsuit, riding boots from an army shop. I am thankful to Rahool Saxena and Ashish Agarwal for taking me to Lal Bazar - Secunderabad  to get some stuff.
Will get my bike from service station in 1-2 days, then I will complete my tool kit, get white and black riding glasses, clean my saddle bags, clean my riding jacket, chose what I have to carry along and by 9th August (Thursday) I will be ready for the ride.
I am going to start on 11th August - 3:30 am from Hyderabad to Mumbai. I know the road from Zaheerabad (from where we took right for Bidar ride) goes straight to Solapur and from Solapur, there is a way to Pune and from Pune I will find the road to Mumbai. If rain gods are kind enough, it will take me some 12 hours to reach Mumbai.

6th August : I told about my ride to a few people in office and they were amused. Don't go, will you be able to ride alone?, take a pillion rider to ride in turns, go with a group, go by train/bus, it is not safe in monsoons are a few comments I have got so far. Apart from a few rider friends, no one really can understand the zeal to ride, to get lost and the fun to ride solo.

9th August: Tool kit ready, bike ready. Packing left. Waiting for Saturday morning, would be difficult to think about anything else now till the start of ride.

10th August: By now everything was ready, had dinner with teammates at Ella hotel and came back to sleep. It was 10pm and I set the alarm for 2am.

11th August: The sme alarm ring sounded very pleasant that morning. At 3 am sharp I was on the road. Due to ongoing holy month of Ramzan there was some comotion outside. I hit Zaheerabad road in no time and crossed Sangareddy, Zaheerabad, left AP, entered and left Karnataka and entered Maharashtra.

The route I took was:

Hyderabad - Zaheerabad - Umarga - Solapur - Pune - Lonavala - Khandala - Panvel - Mumbai
Distance: 750kms
Time: 13.5 hours
Vehicle: Bullet Electra 5s

There were a lot of lorries but I was overtaking them easily. Only trouble was ruthless volvos from opp. side as they almost pushed me off the road every time. It was really a nice ride in dark, I wished the morning could be delayed by another couple of hours.

The road sa few kms after Zaheerabad had rough patches not allowing me to touch 80kmph consistently.
With sun rise the weather turned pleasant and I entered green Maharashtra leaving behind all rough patches and the road was fantastic.

I too my first break at Setfal, leaving Hyderabad 350 kms behind at 8:30 am for water, tea, poori-sabzi-aloo at  a roadside Dhaba. The Bullet, the Wanderers flag and military boots made me look like some army guy.

After leaving Setfal at 9am, I maintained good speed and timings upto Pune. There were  few drizzles which gave country side roads a clean look, but at Pune heavy downpour awaited me.

A few lines that came straight from my heart at that point was:

"It's gonna be lots of rains, it's gonna be no sun...
I wanna go ride again, it's gonna be so fun.."

I sang these lines as rains continued all the way for my onward journey. From Pune I crossed Lonavala by NH-4 and stopped at Khandala for tea and Vada Pao as lunch.
Lonavala, Khandala offered beautiful vistas in monsoons lot of greenery, water falls and tourists. Tried to click some pictures but got mostly clouds.

At 2:30pm I left Khandala and accidently took Mumbai - Pune expressway. I was stopped by a police SUV and I told them I lost my way. An interesting conversation followed:

Cop - "2 wheeler allowed nahi hai"
Me  -  " I lost my way sir"
Cop - "Which country"
Me - "All over India"
Cop - "Ok, Colaba"
Me - "Yes"
Cop - "Go straight, take a u -turn and take exit road a few metres ahead on left"
Me - "Thank you, your name" and shook hands with him.
Cop - "Ganesha"

Cool, I thought. He mistook me for a foreigner wanting to go toColaba and let me go easily :)
At Zakir Nagar in Mumbai, bike got punctured. Luckily, there was a puncture shop nearby so I got no chance to open my tool kit.

For completing day 1 ride successfully, discipline was the key. Less stops, constant speed and bullet performed nice.

Some pics:

After Zaheerabad @Karnataka - Andhra border



Abandoned petrol pump

Time for fresh air

Wanderes - Bulleteers of Hyderabad club

Time to wear rain suit

Outside Dhaba in Khandala

Clouds and the falls playing hide and seek

That's me posing

Mumbai - Pune expressway

After reaching Mumbai, I stayed there till 15th August. Got brake shoes rubbed at a workshop and a day before leaving for Goa, got a lunch invitation by a friend Hussain in Chiplun (on NH-17, 250 kms after Mumbai).

16th August: I started for Goa at around 7am, crossed Thane and Panvel in rains. I was going very slow and almost took 3 hours to cover 100kms before halting for breakfast somewhere.

The route I chose:
Mumbai - Panvel - Chiplun - Ratnagiri - Goa all on Mumbai - Goa road or NH-17.

The ghat road started and slowly the ride started becoming more exciting. I always thought of doing Mumbai - goa on my bike and here I was.

I reached Chiplun at 1 in afternoon and was greeted by Hussain, though he was on a fast but he made sure I eat a lot of food. It was a good afternoon with him and we discussed about old university days. And then went for a small round of Chiplun, visited some old cave there and was on highway again.

From Chiplun, I continued almost non stop, took a wrong road towards Kolhapur that wasted some time. The rains continued and I kept moving ahead. No tea, no stops - only water and chocolates for myself and petrol for bullet. And as I entered Goa in dark, I was greeted by 2 bullet riders.

"Welcome to Goa, from Haryana?"
I could only say - "Yes" :)

They asked me where I would stay and offered me a place, but I already told a friend - Pavan from Wanderers who was there with friends that I would be staying with them. So, at 10pm I looked for place near Calangute and in short time found myself at beach with a couple of beers. After lot of rains, the sky was clear and I sat there till 2:30 am admiring the silent beach at night with beers.

Some pics from Mumbai - Goa highway:

A beautiful lake on the way

Had to push my bullet a lot to go up there

Finally up there

My friend Hussain

Changed quickly otherwise no one would have let me inside their decorated drawing room :)

Other side of river is the place where crocs live @ behind hussain's backyard

Back in Riding mode

Old caves outside Chiplun

Beautiful countryside road

17th August :
After having breakfast with Pavan and his friends, we went and relaxed at Anjuna beach where I met a friend Manali from Mumbai. Kept on roaming on bullet and just relaxed for the whole day. Obviously had a lot of fish there :).
At night, had party with Pavan and his friends at Baga beach.

18th August :
Went to Aarambol and sat at a very nice beach shack with good music and peaceful location, away from hustling crowd of Goa. Walked to 3 more beaches in line and to sweet water lake.

Place where I stayed near Calangute

Outside Anjuna beach



Anjuna beach from U-V bar



19th August:
On this day, I rode from Goa to Hampi, which was the best riding experience on this whole ride. I was a little confused on what route to take from Goa to Hampi and after asking a few people, checking google maps I took the route:

Calangute (Goa) - Ponda - passed through bhagwan mahaveer national park on my right - Collem - Ramnagar - Hubli - Hospet - Hampi - Gangavati - Virupupara Gaddi(known as Hampi island) and stayed there.
It was very simple, just after Mandovi river bridge on Panji side, take a left (there is an Indian Oil petrol pump on left side). 1km on that road and another left where you will meet NH-4. Then after a few kms, follow Belgaum road and pass Ponda. Keep moving and pass Bhagwan Mahavir National Park on your right). Then road will be all yours, very beautiful till Ramnagar. again at Ramnagar, left goes to Belgaum and right goes to Anshi National Park. Miss both and take straight road, after a couple of hours you will again meet Belgaum - Hubli road. A right towards Hubli and keep asking for Hospet. From Hospet Hampi is 15 kms, but for staying take Hospet - Gangavati route and ask for Viupapura Gaddi or Hampi island. 
Distance covered 430 kms.

Goa - Karnataka border area was in ghats and was really beautiful, the time I was riding, I felt I chose the best season as the complete area was covered with thick lush green forests and had many waterfalls along the road, a treat to any nature lover's eyes.
Started at 5 am in morning and reached at sharp 1:30 outside mango tree restaurant at Hampi.

I should have taken Hospet - Gangavati road, but since I was supposed to meet other riders of Wanderers club in Hampi, I went through that route. I called Lalit bhai to know they are at some other temple and after some 40 minutes met with other riders, who were staying at virupapura Gaddi (known as Hampi island).
Then I took Raghu along with me and went by road to the hotel where they were staying.

After a quick shower, me and Raghu went to a peaceful cafe - Laughing Budha with river side view and had a very nice lunch, soup and a beer. We were joined soon by Raju and other group and we had a very nice time. 5 guys and 29 beers was the equation :)
Met a rider Manish there, first one so far I met in south who has done lot of touring up there in Himalayas.

I really liked this place, it has a few cafes that reminded me of those in Old Manali and Kasol that served good food and music. Laughing Budha cafe's owner Deepak was a nice and friendly guy and I discussed a lot with him about that place and all. I took his no. and he can be called if someone is looking for a simple and peaceful cottage to stay for 400-500Rs.

However,  a difference between this place and the places up Himalayas was the people. Most of the hotel/restaurant staff I found was typical money minded Telugu/Kannada guys unlike the Buddhists/Tibetans up in north. These guys at Gauthami forest hotel (where we stayed) were trying to imitate a fake english accent even when I spoke in Hindi and were completely funny. For sure avoid Gauthami hotel for staying, if you are looking for a peaceful stay.

About Hampi:It's a UNESCO World heritage site, with ruins of Vijayanagara kingdom. Has temples, forts and some monuments - all heritage structures. Best way to roam around is get a TVS moped for 150-180 Rs ( I got one for 100 for 2 hours), get a litre of petrol (they charge 100 per litre extra) and visit the places. Once all the places are visited, come down to Tungabhadra river side take a steamer, cross the river and go to Hampi island to stay for the night and enjoy view of river, trees, Shiva temple, nice music and some refreshing drink from laughing budha cafe.  

I wanted to stay there for a longer duration and someday for sure will return back to do nothing and relax.

Some pics from Goa to Hampi :

20th August I woke up late, visited a few temples and left exact at 10:30 am for Hyderabad. Wanderers riders left at 8 am, I could catch up with them near Mehboob Nagar and we all regrouped for lunch.

The route I took from Hampi to Hyderabad on bike was :

Hampi - Gangavati - Raichur - Mehboobnagar - Shamshabad - Hyderabad.
Distance - some 345kms

This route was simplest of all the other routes and most boring and plain dry highway with no rains.
I could have come straight in 7 hours, but as the famous quote goes: "When you are in a group, you are as fast as slowest member of the group".

Some pics from Hampi - UNESCO Heritage site and from my reunioin with group on 19th night:
Some of below pics courtesy : Prabhala Raghu (my friend of Wanderers club)

Back home in evening, I kept thinking about the ride and I wish very soon, I leave this city life and settle at a peaceful place.

I am back from this amazing 10 day monsoon ride from Hyderabad - Mumbai - Goa - Hampi - Hyderabad on my bike. Covered around 2400 kms and enjoyed my solo ride a lot. I must say that roads in South were really good and broad most of the times which made my ride a comfortable one. I can easily co relate doing 500kms here to 200 kms in upper regions of Himachal and J&K.

An outline of places I covered.

New year ride to Sirmour district

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

"Let's ride again to some nearby place, like we rode to Dalhousie." I could remember only this conversation on phone with Vaibhav.

"Yeah, when are you coming to Delhi? I want to ride as well, a weekend ride may be." Vaibhav replied.
At Biker Zone facebook group Ranjeet posted and asked us to confirm by 24th December if we are coming to Chandigarh to ride further ahead.
On 27th December, I called Vaibhav and confirmed my ride. A few quick adjustments he made to his other plans and we were ready for exploring a lesser known, lesser visited district of Himachal - Sirmour district.
As I reached Delhi, I called Vaibhav at my place and discussed about the ride with some Red Label.
On 30th December 2011 night, we left for Chandigarh on volvo. Reached there at around 1am and assembled at Archit's flat. Ranjeet picked me from ISBT and Vaibhav had some other work so he left. We assembled at Archit's room at around 2:15 am on 31st December. Prashant and Satish also joined us there and all 5 of us were now ready to ride.

Room of a biker

The bikes were out, 4 of them:
1) Bullet Electra 4s (Archit's) : Riders Me and Vaibhav
2) RE Desert Storm (Prashant's Thor)
3) CBZ Extreme - Ranjeet's and
4) P180 - Satish's. 
 
The bikes looked fresh and thirsty to raid some new roads in Himachal. We left and in no time hit Chandigarh-Shimla highway. As we moved towards Dharampur, we stopped for a tea and ordered Parathas. It was 31st December morning and was very cold, and we started having general conversations at Dhaba.


A few days back in Hyderabad I met Bullet riders of Hyderabad - Wanderers club and I remember a conversation between them : "Morning time is the riskiest to ride, the truck drivers are sleepy and can hit you." The other guy nodded and said "Yes and we shouldn't ride after 6pm, before it's dark we should settle wherever we are", another guy agreed to previous 2 statements and added "Yes, if we are stuck in night or morning with a fault or puncture, we will be left with no other option than to get stranded in the mid of the highway." For once, I thought about it then smiled and thought about the fun of night riding in hills with less traffic, reflecting light which makes us aware if someone is coming from opposite side, that chill in the spine and a sense of thrill.

Ok, so after having a good round of tea/parathas/bakchodi we started for Dharampur and then took a right and a quick left from there(not towards Nahan). A few kms ahead there is a Y shaped road and we had to take the left one. It was there when we all started feeling the real cold inside our double layered gloves.

Moved further ahead only to stop at roadside and gathered some sticks and wood and lit up fire. We sat again and till that time it was 6 am. Since we had no fixed destination, se we were enjoying all these long stops for bakchodi. Now we reached this place ---- and stopped for attending nature's call and breakfast/tea. Now when everyone started feeling sleepy at around 8:30 - 9 a.m., Vaibhav was active and took the lead. I was a pillion rider on Electra 5s and now we entered Sirmour district.

For the first time, I was without my own bike and as a pillion I had my own apprehensions. I kept alert and made sure Vaibhav is listening to my tips and unwanted guidance.
The landscape now looked similar to lower areas of Uttarakhand, we kept moving and passed many places. Ranjeet remembered the names of most of the places on the way. Now the sun was sharp and so were we, as we crossed villages of Sirmour, one after the other.
Finally we reached Haripur Dhar and decided to stay there. Went to some temple at the top of the hill. It was nail biting cold so after getting a decent room we opened up our stock of Rum and Vodka. We had a good dinner later and then we dozed off, all 5 of us celebrated New Year in deep sleep.

At our hotel in HaripurDhar

Beautiful Sunset

Bikes parket next to 'theka'

Haripurdhar village



One of these 3 was our dinner



Stairs leading to temple

Renuka Ji lake

The next morning was fresh and we were supposed to head back for Chandigarh via Renuka ji and we started off after a heavy double breakfast. Had our lunch at Renuka ji and continued via Nahan towards Kala Amb. It was there I parted from the group and boarded a bus back for Delhi.

Another day at home and I flew back to Hyderabad. It was a short, crispy trip to Delhi and Himachal and I wish I could get more time for such trips to escape from madness of city life, from madness of dull, boring people & places. It's almost after 7 months I am writing this blog and my heart still remains there in Himachal.

Cheers,
Puneet!!!

My MM540 Restoration complete

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

A little off topic, not related to my travels but just for my own memories I am documenting this one.

I always wanted to have a jeep, back since I was a kid. And finally in the month of April I was randomly checking some jeep pics and came across and internet listing of mm540.
I was tempted, called Dilip Bhai(my friend in Hyderabad) and shared this idea of buying a jeep with him. Then checked my account balance and called the seller. A few negotiations, a small test ride and I got that mm540.
It was an old 1990 model - very hard, lazy like an arrogant bull. I had to tame it and to tame it I had to start rebuilding it.
It took me almost 35-40 days, paper work is still pending, to rebuild it.

I had to check lot of internet links for help, till one stage I was reading good info from teambhp.com but later when I wanted to ask for more I was declined a membership by teambhp moderators. I don't know on what grounds, but I was even more charged to do all the work, necessary findings by myself.

In rebuilding Cobra (that's what I name my jeep as), many people helped me.
Special thanks to my dad, noopur & rahul for some fundings :) and Nasser (the seller) who guided me on a lot of things.

So when I drove the jeep for the first time, I immediately realised that first thing to be taken care of is mechanics and later I can work on looks.

So this is all what I did to Cobra:

Stage 1 : Brake liners, clutch plates, pressure plates, bearings, front frame change, labor & miscellaneous things - Rs 11000

Stage 2: Tinkering, denting, body lining, painting(green) - Rs 15000

Stage 3: Front seat lining, all seat covers(rexine), some mats, new rear seat and replacing the old seats with cushions -  Rs 8000

Stage 4 : Old tyres from Afzal Gunj market : 265/70/R16 - 3 michelline tyres and 1 falken tyres in reasonable condition. - 1500 each = 6000  + 200 fitting +  300 (discs) + 4000(tubes + balancing)= 10500 total. My rim size was stock mm540 - 6.00 - 16" with 4.5 inch thick. A little problem in negotiating sharp curves as the steering is very hard now and I had to go with 1 disc each just at the intersection of axle and tyres to give a little more space to tyres.
The new tyres were like 7000-8000 each, I didn't wanted to invest too much on tyres since at first I wanted to check mechanicals and then do any significant investment on tyres.

Till this point jeep was running but without top.

"Top & tyres will give your jeep a breather", quoted Nasser and I couldn't agree more with this statement.

I got the top work done at Jameel's workshop in Bahadurpura. He gave me 3 options:

1) Half top - 2500
2) Simple top - 5000
3) Half top + convertible top on rear side - 8500

I chose the 3rd one and got the top work done.

Stage 5: Top work + Bars fitted (with leather covering to make 2.5inch dia bar look thicker like 4 inch)
Cost - 8500+ 2000 = 10,500

So in all 5 stages which lasted for 45 days I spent around - 52K


My raw jeep cost = 78000 + paper work(still pending) 1500 + 52000 = 1,35,500

I have to get a stand by tyre, tube,a jack, spanners, some sticker work.

Will post the pics soon :)

Tips for Ladakh Ride

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

 

Tips for Ladakh Ride :


Must carry clothes & accessories for self–

1) A good warm jacket.

2) Body warmers (including lowers).

3) A pair of extra socks.

4) Some t-shirts (for layering which keeps cold air away from body due to insulation formed between layers)

5) Good solid shoes(ankle height preferable, avoid sport shoes)

6) A woolen cap (monkey cap will be good to cover ears, neck)

7) A woolen muffler.

8) A pair of good sunglasses.

9) Helmet, riding jacket, riding accessories like knee guard, elbow guard etc depending on what kind of jacket and lower one wears.

10) A rain suit is must. Lower of rain suit can be directly worn over the body warmer’s lower.

11) A good spf sun screen lotion – A big must, else you won’t be recognized after coming back.

12) A pair of cotton gloves inside and riding gloves over it.

13) A small torch and a small knife optional (swiss knife).



To keep your bike fit:

First and foremost – bike should be healthy, serviced and clutch plates, pressure plates, brake shoe, wheels, battery, electrical in top notch condition.

Carry spares:

• Clutch, accelerator wires.
• Spark plug, adapter.
• Complete tool kit.
• Puncture kit including spanners to open tyres and to take tube out.
• Extra tube.
• Extra chain link.
• A little mechanics to adjust air-fuel mixture replace wires and make puncture/replace tube.
• One foot pump will suffice for group.
• Headlight bulb.
• Big plastic to cover your stuff.
• Bungee cords to tie your stuff.
• Some cans for carrying extra fuel; take extra fuel from Tandi from where next fuel station wouldbe after 365 kms. You might get fuel in black, but quality wouldn’t be necessarily the same.
• A few random checks before starting - Check brake, oil level, lights & indicators.
• Saddle bags or carriers to tie bags are must. Don’t tie bags on rear seat, it won’t remain intact.

Some tips for a Rider:

1) Drink lot of water, always tie one extra bottle over your luggage as water will become lukewarm because of sun and it will be pleasant in that cold.

2) Remember Ladakh is the only place in world where if you keep your feet in shade and your face in sun, you can get frost bite and heat stroke at the same time. So don’t over cover yourself if you feel cold and suddenly don’t remove all the clothes if you feel hot.

3) Beware of the rocky & slippery road, ride slow, enjoy the nature and don’t think yourself in a rally (though you will be tempted at times to ride fast and negotiate those curves and mud).

4) Eat less for initial 3-4 days as digestion is aerobic process which requires oxygen which is less there. Particularly on Manali – Leh highway. Once the body is acclimatized to higher altitudes, eat everything out there.

5) Carry some medicines like – Diamox (pop a tablet before going to sleep in Manali), some pain killer (Disprin), Paracetamol, a tablet for vomit & lose motions, a mosquito repellant cream, glucose powder, chocolates & glucose biscuits which will give
instant energy to body.

6) Try to hit the road early, reach your destination and enjoy the place.

7) Don’t drink much alcohol if you feel uncomfortable due to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). At most of the places where there are chances of getting hit by AMS there are army hospitals providing free oxygen. Don’t hesitate to use them.

8) Be courteous with locals and don’t make fun of their simplicity, style or traditions.

9) The rule says – The vehicle coming in upwards direction has the right of way. Some people don’t know about it but many follow it.

10) Don’t expect variety of food on Manali – Leh highway, expect Rice – Dal, Maggi & tea mainly except at a few towns where you can get chapatti, mutton and some veggies as well.

11) While returning back from Kashmir, try not to ask questions from locals like – Have you seen a terrorist? Do you know any? Why are they doing like this and all. They might get offended.

12) Our army provides free tea at some places, mingle with them and make their day as well.

13) Avoid following short cut trails unless you are in a 4WD.

14) Try Jhang(rice beer) in Keylong or Darcha or anywhere else in Lahaul.

15) Don’t think too much while riding – RIDE FREE, just keep headlights on and keep an eye on the fellows.

16) And most importantly - Environment there is fragile, so love nature don't spoit it. Don't spread plastic waste. Thanks!


Distance from Delhi to Leh -->

Delhi to Manali - 560km
Manali to Leh - 475 kms
Total - 1050 kms(approx)


Best months to travel - June 1st week to October 1st week.
Avoid August if you don't want to get stuck at Rohtang pass.Best Itinerary in my opinion:

 Day 1 - Delhi - chandigarh - Shimla (250 +100) = 350

1st stop at Zilmil Dhaba just after Karnal(Haryana) - 120 kms from Delhi and have the best parathas of North with white makhan and tea..
In Chandigarh must try Pal Dhaba in Sector 22D for best mutton and chicken for some early lunch.
Start early this day as sun will take all the fluids out so make sure to cross chandigarh by 11 am..

Day 2: Shimla - Narkanda - Sainjh (take a left from here) - Anni - Jalori Pass (some 3200metres) - Aut - Take a right and follow highway to Kullu - Manali. Halt at some budget hotel in Old Manali.
Again start early this day to enjoy a drink in Johnson cafe Manali in night. Don't take too many breaks, P&S cameras are best for this route.

Day3: Manali - Rohtang Pass(Rohtang means pile of dead bodies, so be careful :)) - Gramphoo - Koksar(Have lunch here) - Tandi (get tanks refill) - Keylong(headquarters of Lahaul district) - Darcha (It is a makeshift village on banks of river set up by locals only for 5 months a year) Some 150Kms
Stop there, cheap and nice surroundings. You can try some Jhang there (Rice beer) If you want luxurious stay with toilets and nice beds, then stay at Jispa camp some kms before Darcha.
Expect pagal nullah on this stretch. I heard it has lost it's charm so won't be much difficult for riders to cross.

Day 4: Darcha - Sarchu - Pang. You will cover some passes like Barlacha La, Nakeela and Lachungla, along with Moore plains and Gata loops(remember old ad of Avenger) Some 140kms
This stretch will test you as a rider, stamina is needed, avoid alcohol here and drink lot of water. Don't do much physical activities and ride safely. You will see beautiful Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal on the way.

Day5: Pang - Rumste - Upshi - Leh some 180 - 185kms
This day you wiill cross Tanglang la, which was toughest on route at our time.
Apart from it, this route is good and you can cover at a good, easy pace.

*Now if you are short of time:
Do Day 3 - Manali - Sarchu(230kms)
Day 4 - Sarchu - Leh(230-240kms)

Day 6 - Complete Rest and local market visits. Get your permits for Pangong lake & Nubra valley (per person around 50Rs) easy process at DM office opp. to polo grounds, Leh...


Day 7 - Leh - Khardungla (some 37kms) Steep incline and you reach some 18300 feet at highest motorable road in the world.. (after marsimik la which is not promoted as a tourism spot due to it's strategic location) You can either go to Nubra valley and stay one night there or come back to Leh.. All depends on time and mood of riders...

Day 8/9 - Leh - Pangong Tso - Leh (290kms)
Start early to enjoy time at lake.. Don't stay there unless u have ur own tents.. On this route you will cross mighty chang La, another ass breaking pass.. Tangste at 110 kms on this route from Leh has good retaurants and some options to stay...

Day 9/10 - Leh and start for Kargil. It is 220 kms from Leh passing through Fotu La.. I suggest to stay at Drass instead of Kargil which is another 2 hours from there.
Must see Drass war memorial

Day 10/11 Drass - Srinagar (some 175 kms) through Zoji La. You will cross beautiful Sonamarg..

Day 11/12 - Srinagar - Jammu (250 kms of a full traffic highway)

Day 12/13 - Ride a lot on this day and reach Delhi from Jammu..Start early and take less breaks ...

Acc to me in these days, this will be the best route.. Rest you can alter places to stay a few kms ahead or behind, depending on group's pace..

I might have missed some/lot of points, if you have any other doubt in mind feel free to share.

Cheers!!!!