Ladakh revisited!

It's been more than a month since I am in South India, just now opened window of my posh 12th floor flat and the cool breeze brought some memories; memories of my last trip to Ladakh, one of the very few that I want to forget, as the more I think about it, the more I become restless to go back to Ladakh.

On 15th day of July 2011, I flew to Leh and at 7 a.m. in the morning got myself a room for 200Rs at Chanspa road. After having a mint tea there I slept only to wake up at 1pm. For all those who don't know, acclimatization is very important for 1-2 or may be 4-5 days(for some) at high altitude places. It was a Friday and I thought of going out for lunch, had a discussion with the guy at Tourist Information Center and got to know that the bus to Pangong lake runs only on Saturday, Sunday at 6:30 am from Leh.

I wanted to attend a festival at Shachukul, a strong reason why I was in Ladakh at that time, and for reaching Shachukul I needed to get down at Tangste (110 kms from Leh on Leh - Pangong stretch). I went to DC office and got a 6 day permit for myself only at 50Rs for Pangong and Nubra valley. Lot of walking on first day, had my lunch - momos and soup and it was then that I felt a bit uncomfortable with some heaviness in my head.
I immediately rushed to my room and tried to sleep, only to keep waking up at intervals but yes I slept a lot that day.

My room in Leh

Busy street in Leh

Polo ground being used for parking

Day 2: Saturday, 16th July 2011:
I could only manage to start from my guest house at 7:30 am, reached bus stop at 8 and got to know from locals that bus for Pangong already left at 7:15. So there I saw another bus going towards Hanle and I thought may be I could go there, but 40 kms from Leh, just at Karu I saw the bus that I missed and foreign tourists getting their permits checked. I got down from my bus and went inside the bus. I was feeling relieved that I got my bus and will reach Tangste in time, but the bus was very slow.

I was among a few people who covered most of their journey on the roof of the bus, so we were not asked for a ticket. General rule goes like this: If you get a seat, you will be charged for a full ticket, if you are standing inside, you have to pay half the price of the ticket and if you are on the top of the bus, it's free.
I was in the last category, I enjoyed the ride up to Changla, it was bumpy, slow but exciting. I made friends with some locals and a few foreigners and we all had a nice time, exchanging our life stories.
My Ladakhi friend was an army Jawan and he took off for 3 days to attend festival in Shachukul.


The bus reached Tangste at 2:30 pm and I, along with a few others got down there. After having my lunch I was undecided on whether I should stay at Tangste or walk towards Shachukul which was a good 8-9kms from Tangste. An old french man was the first to start walking towards Shachukul, and a group of volunteers also started, so I thought I may manage to walk 8kms in a group but it won't be possible for me to walk alone the next day. So we all walked, it wasn't easy and since I landed in Leh just a day back, I was feeling breathless. Somehow, we reached Shachukul as we got a jeep for last 4kms. At Shachukul, there was no place to stay, the frenchman had a sleeping bag and he got permission to use open space in front of a house, the other 5 volunteers knew someone and they stayed in the house of that local family. Though a monk offered me a place, but I wasn't feeling comfortable there, I wanted to sleep well for that night as I was tired so I decided to come back to Tangste as the festival was scheduled on 17th and 18th July.

Came back to Tangste and found a very nice home stay - Namatsey guest house at Tangste, the family was really nice. An old uncle and his wife, their one son and his wife and their 1 year old grand-daughter. As the night approached, I felt short of oxygen so I dozed off at 8pm.

Just before Chang La

Lamu

On the way to Changla

Chang La

Yana, MArika, lamu and Panvel

He wanted to eat Camera

Tangste town

Another mode of hitchhiking

My beautiful room in Tangste

Day 3: Sunday, 17th July'2011:
The next morning was really good for me, a fresh one. After having my breakfast I decided to go out and have a walk in the town. I met a few local boys and they wanted to know about my life back in Delhi, so I sat with them and we chatted till 3 pm. Aah, I should leave for the festival now, but the uncle told me that they will be going to festival on 18th with family and I could go with them and by 4 pm it would be finished. I had no problems.

So there outside our home, we were sitting and talking, just when I saw a group - A couple from Prague(Panvel and Yana) and a German girl(Marikaa). They were coming back from Pangong lake and wanted to go to Shachukul for festival. I asked them to stay in Tangste and go to festival the next day, they too came in the same guest house where I was staying. We had good conversation there and had dinner together. Next morning they were wanted to attend the festival very early and go back to Leh.


Day4: Monday, 18th July'2011:


This day I met a local guy - Ali. He was helpful and friendly and was working for J&K State Government and was meeting people in and around that region to install Solar Power equipment in the villages. Then I went with family to Shachukul monastery for festival. It was a good experience with masked men dancing and were dressed as monsters.There is this saying that when a person is on his deathbed, a scary man comes and takes away his soul, so the person about to die gets scared from this man, so scared that leaving breathe becomes difficult for him. So these men with scary masks were there so that people see them, remember them and don't feel scared from them at their death bed, so that the death becomes easy for everyone.

After coming back from festival, I hitchhiked to Pangong lake, had lunch there. I tried to ask for a ride from some Indian people, couples and families but may be I was looking dangerous to them and I couldn't convince anyone to take me to Pangong. Then came a Scorpio with a few foreigners and it took me no effort to mingle with the group and they took me for a ride. Pangong lake was very much commercialized in 3 years, last time when I visited the lake it was very isolated. So I dropped the idea of staying there for the night and came back to Tangste with a group of middle aged men from Punjab who were there on a Innova. They were fun guys to be with.

After coming back from lake I went to riverside with Ali, who took a bath in the river. I too wanted, but water was too cold for me. Ali kept eating chips and chocolates and told me that he don't eat outside food. He refused tea and Maggi that I offered him later at my guest house. It was 2 days after when I got to know that Muslims of Ladakh (predominantly Shias) won't eat at a Buddhist kitchen. Well, not a good fact to know but I wish people set aside their old beliefs at least for some good. But they have their own reasons, that in year 2006 there were conflicts between Muslims and Buddhists there and Muslims were forced to leave Ladakh for Kargil but snowfall started and they were out of their homes without food and at that time Buddhists didn't let them eat anything and kept them starved. At that time, Indian Army mediated and sent Muslims back to their homes. Again, all stories from different people.

Then I sat with uncle who by now had become frank with me and was not hesitant to drink his rum in front of me. I promised the family to return back there whenever time allows me.

At Shachukul

Traditional Ladakhi lady

Ali in his Gypsy

As we all know - Pangong lake

Day 5: Tuesday, 19th July 2011

Next morning Ali helped me in getting a local taxi, the taxi driver took 5 hours straight and I was in Leh. In the taxi was a cobler and his wife from Rajasthan who were working in Ladakh for full year. One uncle who told me proudly he has been to Delhi also and told me stories about bad people in Delhi. "I know, even I don't like them that's why I am here", I smiled and replied back to him.
Got a room in Leh and met Rajiv, my friend from Delhi who was there. Spent rest of the day with him and mailed a few friends from a net cafe.

Day 6: Wednesday, 20th July 2011


One of the Rajiv's old roommate was a Ladakhi, and Rajiv was keen to search him. But where, we didn't knew anything except that he lives somewhere near Fort Road. We casually asked from a local about his friend's father name and we were bang on the target. He told us about their hotel near airport and we went there. He welcomed us with a beer and we were supposed to meet Marika and 1 of Rajiv's friend - Lily at 3pm to walk around Leh. We visited monastries, palaces and a few other places.

Later in the evening, we relaxed at a cafe in Chanspa and shared our experiences.

Kashmiri Rista(meat balls) and pudina rice

DAY 8: Leh - Alchi - Likkir - Leh

We booked a taxi to visit Alchi monastery and Likkir Gompa on last day of my stay in Leh............ Ok now got to sleep, will update it some other time!