The Route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake (Via Wari La)

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

Nubra valley, is a very common and known to all destination in Ladakh. One needs to cross Khardungla (37kms from Leh) at 18,380 feet followed by Khardung , Khalsar, Disket, Hunder, Turtuk on the left or Khardung, Khalsar, Panamic on the right.

If you want to take the road from Nubra valley to reach Pangong lake directly, there are 2 beautiful routes there for you without coming back to Khardung La.
Disket – Khalsar (after a few kms towards Khardung take left and follow board towards Agham).

Just after crossing Agham bridge you can see 2 routes. The route on left is to Shayok which opens up at Durbuk on Chang La – Pangong lake road. From Durbuk, Pangong lake is about 40kms. But this route is under heavy construction this year (2013), with river Shayok taking over the roads at many places making it a very difficult choice for motorbike riders. However, a good 4 by 4 with a risk taking driver must try this route.

If you take right after Agham bridge, you will start ascending towards Wari La, a very secluded pass in Ladakh. It is very common not to spot any vehicle or locals on that route except road construction workers . After you descend Wari La, keep moving towards Sakthi (or Serthi as on sign boards). From Sakthi, take left towards Zingral and follow the road to Changla – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik (on banks of Pangong lake).


So here is your route:
Disket – Khalsar – Left after few kms from Khalsar to follow road to Agham – Right after Agham bridge – Tangiyar – Wari La – Sakthi (or Serthi as on boards) – Zingral – Chang La – Tangste – Pangong Lake.


The above route near to Wari La involves good amount of off roading with almost no road and a lot of water streams on the way. I am sure, any motorcycle rider will love this route. It is amongst my favorite trails in Ladakh as there are very less people, almost zero tourists, not at all developed, no roads, less Dhabas, no BSNL signals, no shops, no villages. Only you with some wild mules, horses, yaks, sheeps and a few distinct birds of Ladakh and the adhoc mountains with blue sky in background and cold water streams under you on the path or trail leading to Wari La.

If you are a rider and still haven’t covered this route, don’t think twice, just add these beautiful 4 hours under your belt. If you need to know more about this or have any doubt, ask me. Cheers!
Some pics:

This is just after Agham bridge

Wari La - The mighty pass

Pangong Lake

 

The route from Tso Moriri to Manali-Leh highway

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

If you are looking for the route from Tso Moriri to Pang (On Manali-Leh Highway), you have arrived at the correct post.

From Karzok (village on banks of Tso Moriri), take the road back towards Upshi, until you reach village Sumdo. From Sumdo, take left and follow the trail. After you have crossed around 100kms (it took me 3.5 hours on my motorbike from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar), you will see a beautiful blue colored lake known as Tso Kar.
So if you want to touch Manali – Leh highway from Tso Moriri without going back to Upshi and Tanglangla, here is your way:

Tso Moriri (Karzok) – Sumdo – Tso Kar (105kms)

Tso Kar – Debring – More plains (20kms). Take left on touching More Plains

More plains – Pang – Lachung La – Nakee La – Gata loops - Tanglang La – Sarchu – Baralacha La – Zing Zing Bar – Patseo – Jispa Camp – Darcha – Keylong – Gramphoo – Rohtang La – Manali.


One can chose to stay at Darcha or Keylong for the night, if coming from Tso Moriri via Tso Kar.

Alternately, for those in Leh, looking to do a nice circuit, here is your route:
Leh – Upshi (left from here) – Mahe checkpost (right from here) – Sumdo – Karzok (village on banks of Tso Moriri)– Sumdo (left from here) – Tso Kar – Debring (right on More plains) – TangLang La – Rumste – Upshi – Leh.
It is doable in a day, but my suggestion is to halt at Tso Moriri and enjoy the pristine, untouched beauty of Tso Moriri.


If you need to know anything on this route, let me know and I will help fellow travelers. Cheers.
Below is a pic of Tso Moriri :

 

Getting Permits (Inner Line Permits) in Leh

Year 2014:
Few rules have been changed in Ladakh, please find below changed rules on permits and motorcycling rentals:
1) Motorcycling Rental:

 

 

2) Permits: Indian citizens can use govt. authorized phot ids to several restricted areas without need of permit like to Nubra valley and Pangong lake. But do check this point once in Leh for confirmation. :)


I often come across people who ask me the process of getting Inner Line Permit from Leh for traveling to Nubra valley, Pangong lake, Tso Moriri and other areas in Ladakh.
Though the guest house owners and travel agency guys in Leh can get one for you but they charge 100-200 Rupees extra for a permit. Besides, for me, it is really easy to go to DC office and get a permit for myself. This post is intended for those who want to secure an Inner Line Permit for themselves by their own.

> What is Inner Line Permit in Ladakh and why is it needed?
Inner line permit is a document which is required by each traveler to go to certain places in Ladakh bordering China, it is a written permission letter by District Commissioner (Leh) Office for travelers to visit certain restricted places for travelers.

Inner line permit can be procured from DC Office, Leh, opposite to Polo Grounds. Below is the step wise description of how one can get it easily.

1) Go to photostat shop just on the road ahead of DC office. Ask the guy there that you need forms for getting yourself permits. He will give you a few forms that you can fill there itself with his help. You need to clearly mention the places you intend to visit like Nubra Valley, Pangong lake, Tso Moriri etc. and your name, address and father's name in one form for all your group.

2) Go to DC office, on left side there is a room. Just at the first counter give the filled form, duly signed by you, to the guy. He will go through it and if there is some change that needs to be done, he will tell you.

3) After he approves, he will forward it to next counter and you will be asked 120 Rupees per person as fee for permit. You will give them the fee.

4) After collecting fee, the person will forward your form to next counter and you will be asked for Rs 20 as Wildlife Protection fee, which you will give.

5) Then the form is forwarded to last counter (all counters in row), and the person will call you by your name and collect Rs 200 as environment protection fee which you will give. This Rs 200 is introduced from year 2013 onward.

6) You will get the permit, signed and stamped by DC office - Leh. After getting this permit you go back to photostat guy and get 8-10 copies of this permit and keep all copies with you. When you visit any place and you are asked by army/ITBP/police for your permit, you give them a copy there for their records.


This is a simple process, involving 350 Rupees to get an Inner Line Permit for an Indian citizen.
For foreigners, an extra form with photostat copy of passport is required in addition to above steps.

I hope you get the process and find this useful. If you still have any doubts in the process, do ask.

Cheers and enjoy your trip.

Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!
The best village to stay on banks of Pangong lake in my opinion is Spangmik, a beautiful drive of 7kms along the lake.
From Spangmik (Pangong Lake) to go to Tso Moriri, one has options - either to retrace back to Karu, drive to Upshi and take the road to Mahe from Upshi and right from Mahe to Karzok village on banks of Tso Moriri.
The second option, that is more secluded, more remote, more beautiful and with less roads, with less eateries set up for tourists, along the Chinese border is the road via the village Maan, Merak.


From Spangmik to Maan to Merak. After you cross Merak you will see Pangong lake deviating left. There is no road, no signboard present there. You just need to take the path a little towards right after village Merak. You will see a bridge on left, don't take it.

If you reach this point, you are on WRONG WAY. GO BACK AND TAKE LEFT ROAD

 Be on right side path and continue following that road. You will reach this place:

Distinct path seen on top of plateau, keep following

After you reach this place, go straight and you will reach Chushul village. Make sure you are not following road to village Parmar from there, else you will again get on wrong road to Tangste via Parmar.

At Chushul, get friendly with army guys. They will give you some instructions about not taking the road left even accidently :) as China border is near. From Chushul, keep going straight. The first village after 31kms is Tsaga village. There is one ITBP post named as Tsaga post. After Tsaga, you will reach Loma post. If you take left from Loma post (prohibited), you will reach very close to China. There is only one day in an year when you can go to Loma village - The birthday of Dalai Lama. From Loma, in night you can see China and the lights at Chinese post. Except that one day, for all other days, you will take the straight road from Loma and reach Nyuma. Nyuma is a comparatively bigger village with only 1 tea stall. So after Spangmik, Nyuma is the place where you will get tea and Maggi to eat. In between, there is absolutely nothing, so make your arrangements.
There is BSNL network working in Nyuma and a diesel fuel station (which remains closed most of the time).

From Nyuma, go straight, there is a bridge on left. Don't take it, get on your right side and cross Nyuma military base. Keep going straight to reach Mahe(another in Changthang area. From Mahe Check post, take left for Sumdo. From Sumdo, again left and reach an unidentified lake, straight from there and you reach KArzok on banks of Tso Moriri. There are options of homestay (not really clean), take your tent or stay in the tent accommodation there at lake side. 

This route from Pangong lake to Tso Moriri will require you have extra permits.
2 at Chushul, 1 at Tara, 1 at Loma, 1 at Mahe. So 4 extra copies of permits are required, in addition to 1 being checked at Karu and 1 at Tangste.
So from Leh to Pangong lake to Tso Moriri, you will require 7 copies of your ILP (Inner Line Permit).

And don't forget to mention in your permit places like Nyuma, Chushul and Tsaga.

If you go from Leh - Khardungla - Nubra - WariLa - Sakthi - Changla - Pangong lake - Tso Moriri route, you will require 9 copies of you ILP. So don't hesitate in taking photostats of your permit and extra fuel for 
your trip. If you have any queries on this route, leave a comment and I will get back to you. Cheers and enjoy your trip.

The beautiful way from Maan Merak to Chushul along Pangong lake

Tso Moriri Lake

Riding Solo to Ladakh!

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!
The mind is at its restless best, just can't stop thinking about an old affair, the heart is beating a little faster than usual, the breath wants to free the soul left there and take it back inside.
The eyes try to find it everywhere around, the body becomes numb for not being able to be with it.

The sound of rivers, the chirping of birds, the barren lands, the clear skies, the beautiful lakes, the cold nights, the real smiles, the no rule, pure, divine life of Ladakh - I am coming to you soon.
It all started while preparing itinerary for a group of rider friends in Hyderabad for Ladakh.
14th May'2013:
As the date - 29th June is nearing, I am getting more excited. I am planning my upcoming Ladakh ride from Hyderabad. So, busy in buying stuff for camping, getting my bike in best shape, completing riding gear and secretly slip away from this boring city life.

All good news pouring so far, no worry of leaves as my roll off date from project is also set - 28th June, able to set aside 40K for the ride, told parents and most importantly I am fit to ride.

Earlier I planned of riding all the way from Hyderabad, but have changed my mind owing to deadly summer. I am transporting my bullet to Delhi and will fly to Delhi on 27th June. From Delhi, another old rider friend will join me and we will start our road trip for next 16 days.

"I am riding to Ladakh" - Me,

"Great, how much money needed" - A friend.

Me - "Taking 40-50K as budget".

Friend - "Itne mein to Bangkok ghoom sakte hain"

Me - "I don't care, I am going to Ladakh for 3rd time"

Friend - "Have you gone insane".

And I smiled, I am no insane to go to Ladakh and no sane to stay in routine home-office life.

I never hesitate to use public transport, to eat at cheap food joints, to mingle with all sorts of people. I am not a fan of spending money on show offs or on something I don't like to do. But riding is my passion and riding to Himalayas is one thing I can't trade off anything with.

So, I am ready and will keep updating my plan, itinerary, pre ride things here.


Ok, logging out now to go back to no sane office life.

Cheers!



17th May 2013: The  flight ticket to Delhi is booked - 5000Rs. Bike transportation to cost me 3000 from Hyderabad to Delhi on train.
I am getting lot of requests from other friends to let them take with me, and with Vaibhav dropping out, I am ready to ride solo to Ladakh.

27th June 2013:I finished packing all my stuff. I bought some new things and packed the following stuff for my ride:

2Men Tent , Sleeping bag, Matt.
Swiss Knife and Solar Powered Lantern.
Saddle Bags and plastic sheets in which I will pack my clothes and other things.
Spare parts, tools, puncture kit and extra tube.
Bungee cords, medicines, woolen muffler, rain suit, riding jacket, leather gloves, army boots, fog lights, new front tire, new rear tube.

‘A long wait is finally going to end’, was my thought as I got into a cab for Hyderabad airport after wrapping up my office work on 27^{th June.} 

I called Sourabh to check if the bike was safe and was happy to hear praise about bike's condition and glasswool silencer.
At the airport queue came the first unexpected moment when I had to pay extra 2250 rupees for the luggage I carried beyond 15Kg limit. I reached home in Delhi at midnight and after a few hours slept.

"Puneet bhai, aap kab nikal rahe ho ladakh k liye?", were the first words I heard on phone in morning. It was Ibrahim on the other side calling from Manali and he and Rahool wanted to rest in Delhi for a night. I invited the riders from Wanderers club, Hyderabad to come over. During the day time, went to Karol Bagh for some fittings with Sourabh and now the bike was with me. Rahool and Ibrahim came late in the night and shared their stories of Ladakh. A new crash guard and fog lamps along with panniers gave my bullet a muscular, beefy look.

30th June 2013: I started my ride sharp at 5am from Delhi with my mom, dad flagging my ride off. I didn't had breakfast at home as I wanted to eat tasty parathas at Zhilmil Dhaba - Karnal and in no time reached the place. As the day progressed, I kept cruising comfortably on NH-1 and took the route: Delhi - Ambala – Kharar – Ropar – Kiratpur – Bilaspur. Just after crossing Pandoh dam in Himachal, I had lunch and at 5:30 pm in evening found myself in a comfortable café in Old Manali after checking in at a budget guest house there. The bullets were roaring in Old Manali, some coming from Ladakh and some from plains. I met riders from PEG (Punjab Enfield Generation) at my guest house and had a good time with them. They were returning from Ladakh ride and there at Manali, I could get some first-hand information from them about roads and routes.
A quarter of rum and green salad was my evening diet followed by crispy chicken and Thukpa. I slept very late, around 1 am in night. Some pics for the day:

Salad with Old Monk

1st July 2013: I didn’t set any alarm that night but sharp 6 am I woke up by myself. The lazy man in late twenties thought to sleep and spend a day in Manali, but the rider in me pushed me to get ready and start the Ride further. For next 10 minutes I kept thinking about different passes, lakes, landscape, food and immediately got up and at 7:15 am while sipping a tea at a Dhaba with discussed about sinthan pass from the dhaba owners who were from Kishtwar (J&K). I crossed Rohtang pass in very less time, the same pass I was crossing for 7th time, but looked really pleasant as compared to last time. I was very happy when I couldn't see any shop and touts shouting at Marhi. Wow, cleansing is going on. As I reached Rohtang top, I couldn’t see trash, plastic, shops at Rohtang top. It was appreciable of HP state government to clear settlements from a beautiful and natural place after such a long time. At 11 am, I reached Khoksar and had momos and soup there and updated my where abouts to Lalit bhai - Wanderer club founder and experienced co-rider and family members.

After crossing Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Darcha, Jispa, Patseo, Zing Zing Bar and Baralacha La, I reached Sarchu. Met a rider on the way from Dehradun named Praful and he tagged along with me. He got himself a bed in Dhaba at Sarchu as I kept looking for a suitable place to pitch in my tent.

"Sir yahan hawa zyada ayegi. Road k us tara laga lo." I finally got a place and pitched in my camp.

It’s ready, I said to myself and got inside it. It was 8:30 pm and a very cool breeze made the things a little harder for me. I kept cursing Tandi fuel station in my mind, as the moment I got my tank refueled there, my bike started giving trouble. I had to clean spark plugs every 40-50 km and because of missing, my speed got slowed drastically. At night inside camp in Sarchu, I was a little sleepless. Every 10 minutes I was waking up because of breathlessness. Oxygen was less and body was not fully acclimatized to altitude, the reason behind breathlessness. It was only in the morning 3 am that I could sleep for 4 hours. My breath resembled the miss fire of my bullet. At 8:30 am in the morning, I got ready for next day’s ride. It was a great experience of camping by myself, pitching in a tent and wrapping it up in the morning. Eating packed food, braving the chilling cold in night, using a solar lantern and relieving oneself in the gaze of a million of stars. Every experience was new and I felt good.



By the time my camp got ready, it was 9 pm.



All load shed



Inside my cozy tent



Bright sunny morning - No 1 around

 

2nd July 2013: I was on the road again, I was feeling so good after packing and tying my tent back on the bullet. And as I cruised, me and my bull gave each other a good company. I was feeling the pleasure of being a nomad. I don't care if it is for 2 times a year or so but this feeling was amazing.
As I stopped ahead at Pang, I met a family in Innova from Delhi.

Uncle: Arrey yaar aise hi aa gaye yahan, uff.. oxygen ne jaan le li raat ko. They all had to agree with him and I don't know why but uncle kept looking at me, wanting me to agree. Then he asked me: "Are you alone". I said "Yes". Uncle murmured to his wife: "Sahi hai, ghar walon ko chinta nahi hai inki, akele hi bhej dia." Aunty replied: "Koi nahi, unki umar hai ghumne ki." I chose to ignore and ate a very bad scrambled egg. Then I met a doctor there who told me not to take Disprin and Diamox at those high altitude places, but take paracetamol instead. He was very confident and even advised me to aware others also. May be he was true, and if he was  - All those reading may need to drop Diamox and Disprin from their first aid box for higher altitudes.
I crossed Pang, then on to More Plains. More Plains were very good except for a few kms. Back in 2008, there was no road at all there. I heard from Rahool and Ibrahim that More plains is worst, however I like the worst roads more then the metal roads.

A rider -  Praful from Dehradun was also riding solo and we kept crossing each other at various points. So at one stop, I saw him having tea and I also stopped there and had some conversation. And just after More plains, before Tanglang La ascend I saw a bullet punctured and the owner in distress. I stopped for their help and gave them foot pump after fixing flat tube. They were 3 guys from army and on a civilian like vacation. They told me later at another stop that they don't like to stay in army camps while on vacation which sounds very obvious to anyone.
I crossed Tanglang La with a troubled spark plug and my bullet kept missing and I felt I am riding a Luna and not a bullet. Well, that I suspect was bad quality of fuel at Indian Oil Corporation Petrol bunk at Tandi, which my other friends also complained later. Or may be I needed to clean air filter and spark plug which I kept doing after that for my whole ride.

After Tanglang La, I was very tired so parked bike at roadside near a big and flat rock and laid on the rock. I took a nap for about 20 minutes and then started afresh. Stopped at Rumtse and had tea with those 3 army guys and Praful. After Rumste was a clean road till Upshi and from Upshi to Karu and to Leh. I reached Leh before dark and got a clean, small and peaceful room in Rigzen Guest House at Chanspa road. I always like to stay at Chanspa road as it has less  stereotyped Indian tourists and is reasonably priced. I made good friends with people around my guest house and one guy - Shamim of Larchang guest  house was so nice with me that now I recommend all my friends to go and stay there with him.

After checking in at guest house, I went out and had a cold beer in a very cold night. I was feeling thirsty for some more as I had rest day ahead so I kept having a few beers until I could get lost in my sleep.

Between Sarchu and Pang

I had to click myself all the way like this :)

At a Dhaba in Pang.

More Plains

More Plains again

3rd & 4th July : I spent these 2 days in Leh. It was my 3rd time in Leh, still it looked so fresh. I had a nice time trying out some food and chatting with local shop keepers and just walking around for miles. Nothing much to share as I was away from my bullet and on my feet in Leh.
On one fine evening, I sat on the top of Shanti Stupa and looked at the beautiful blue sky and asked myself - How can I stay in crowded cities? This is the place where I should be. I am living a life in city, which I don't really like. I am not a gadget freak, no fan of latest technologies, no to crowded malls and theatres, not even innovative, no to crowded streets, no show offs.. I just love to stay close to nature, to peaceful places.. places which are away from mad rush of people, places which are pure and where no one talks about monetary things, where everything is pure.. from water to air to people, no matter if that takes me to a life which might be 30 years back but I want to stay away from mad rush of people.
Another thing that keep coming to me from different people was if I am riding alone? If yes, then why? I was not able to explain this to most of the people that if I am alone doesn't mean I am lonely, it just mean that I love my company, I love to spend time with myself. Isn't it too simple for people to understand.
Time for some pics..

A café in Leh

Yummy breakfast

Isn't she really beautiful

Oh yes, I tried some shopping for my fiancé

Half fried momos with soup

Food again

Leh main street, in back ground is Jama Masjid



5th July 2013:
I checked out my room in Leh, said good bye to the old couple running the guest house, again tied all the stuff back on my bullet and was out again. Out again into the wild, one song that came into my mind at that time was - 'Fir se ud chala, ud k chhoda hai jahan main tumhare hoon ab hawale, ab door bagh meelon door ye vaadiyan' . After getting tank full and 4 litre extra petrol I started ascending towards Khardung La. Khardung La, 37 km from Leh is wrongly known ad famous as highest motorable road in the world. But it is 4th highest, less in altitude than Mana PAss, Marsimik La and one more pass. I stoped for getting permits checked at North Pullu and as I was about to reach Khardungla, my bullet again started giving some trouble. Oh, I want to go to Turtuk and there will be no mechanic also on the route. But, stars were on my side and I met a group from Delhi who had their mechanic with themselves and he offered his help to me. As I enjoyed hot maggi and tea at world's highest café, the mechanic got my bike in good shape. Nothing much he did, except thorough cleaning of air filter and setting spark plugs again after cleaning. And as I left Khardungla towards Nubra valley, the landscape changed again. This time the temperatures started soaring, and I crossed villages Khardung, Khalsar, Disket and stopped at Hunder.
I could see and touch double humped camels there. I also met a guy - Nishanth from Bangalore who came to Ladakh all the way on his bicycle. "He has some real balls" was what I thought about the iron butt, iron ball amazing guy. Also met Hema and another guy from Bangalore. To cool off myself from heat I removed my clothes and jumped into a stream of ice cold glacial waters. Wow, anybody would love that feeling.
In sometime, I realized I have all the time to go to Turtuk but not enough fuel to go to Turtuk and come back and cross Wari La to reach Karu. So with a heavy heart I dropped off my plan to visit Turtuk. For those who don't know, Turtuk was ceded to India by Pakistan as a fall out of 1971 Indo-Pak war and it had majority of population as Muslims of Balti origin, same as those in Kargil (I just heard this info from someone :))
So now I thought to camp there in Hunder and as I started unloading my stuff I saw lot of animals coming around. They were domestic camels, goats, mules, dogs and it was completely isolated with no one in vicinity for miles except a few camel keepers. So I discussed with Nishanth and others and decided to stay in their guest house - Siachen guest house in Disket. We were joined by the army guys and formed a group there at Siachen guest house. In the evening went to Disket monastery and heard a very good music - live drums with background breeze during the sunset time.
We came back to guest house at around 9pm and after having dinner and chat I went to sleep. I had a good time with everyone there particularly Nishanth. But I had to move the next morning to camp along Pangong lake. This was a long pending dream and one of the driving forces for me to ride solo on this trip.
Some pics from the day:

This is where my bike refused to start

mechanic paaji at his best

Thoda pose bhi maar lena chahiye



Group from Delhi

Road to Disket, very beautiful

Small army supply depot

Sand on road

In Disket

6th July 2013:
I started my ride at around 7:30 am and this time instead of going back to Leh via Khardung-La, I took the Wari-La route. At Agam bridge, I saw 2 roads.
Route 1 was left and would go via Shayok and open up near Durbuk. I wanted to do this route as well but confirmed news of riders returning back from this route due to river Shayok on road made me take the other route. The right one, that took me to a heavenly pass - WariLa. All along the way only a few road construction workers were the humans I could sight. Rest all were mules, horse, yaks, birds among the living ones and mountains, broken roads with lot of water and beautiful nature was accompanying me all along.
At the top of Wari La I got down from bike, had a 36o degree view of the place, took a deep breath and felt happy to have reached that place. I drank a lot of water and just sat there for 10 minutes. I thought of checking if someone else comes to this place in next few minutes and as expected no one came. Then I started descending towards Shakti and took a couple of flat shortcuts. I was going very slow and carefully as road was bad with stones and sharp descending gradient at many places. Then I went to Karu and got petrol filled up and this time I took around 9+4 = 13 litters extra petrol in plastic jerry cans. I was still not confident if this could take me to all the places I want to go to before sighting another fuel station. And I was right, even after tank full and 13liter extra fuel, I fell short of petrol.
Had mutton chowmein at Karu and then started at around 2pm for Pangong lake. My plan was to camp along the lakeside and I stopped at Chang La for famous free tea served by Indian army there. On my way to Changla, water flowed in all the streams in full flow and at many places I had to use my feet to make the bullet moving ahead in those streams. I met a few riders from England there and at one stop or other we kept crossing each other. I took a tea break at Tangste and from there went straight to Spangmik (pronounced as Pang-mik).
I dropeed the idea of camping along the lakeside, instead I camped at a few metres away from lake on other side of road to avoid the heavy breeze and cold. But all I could see behind was heavenly Pangong lake. After setting up my camp at Tibetan Home stay compound, I befriended the riders from England and we had a nice time over dinner with a couple of beers.
As the color of sky changed from blue to black with a thick sheet of bright stars, I came back to my camp and locked myself inside the warm camp and slept. I thought of going to Tso Moriri a little late the next day.
Pics time:

Agham bridge



After a stream full of water in which silencer was also drowned

This was the stream

Just after the stream

On the way to Wari La

Wari La

At changla with English riders

Tangste Check Post

After reaching Lukung on banks of Pangong lake

In Spangmik, my camp is set up

My camp, my bull. Pangong lake in background

Tanhaiyee mein agar beer ka sath ho..

Tired after a rough ride day, about to sleep..

7th July 2013:
After having a good breakfast with green tea, I packed my camp and all stuff and was ready to leave for an unknown route. I just knew I had to reach Tso Moriri via Chushul and Tsaga La and had mentioned names of these places on my permit. I took some inputs from old man at Tibetan home stay and after bidding goodbye to English riders who headed back to Leh from Pangong, I was out. Out in a world in Ladakh which is as remote to Ladakhis as Ladakh is to others. Taxi drivers generally don't take tourists there due to rough roads, buses won't ply on that route, foreigners not allowed beyond that point, not on google maps as well. Yes the route from Pangong lake to Tso Moriri via Man, Meraak, Chushul, TsagaLa, Loma, Nyuma, Mahe is a remote one in East Ladakh. It passes through Chumur sector, which became famous due to latest invasion by Chinese troops. One can go to Hanle from Loma, Hanle is highest observatory in world.
In the midst of this uncertainty about the route I started my ride, was careful to be on right track as left would take me to restricted areas very close to Chinese border. I was going slow and enjoying scenic Pangong on my left. I could see the point from where Pangong took a left turn and may be a few kms ahead it would enter into China. I crossed many uncontrolled streams, and took a wrong turn also only to retrace and take the right path. I have mentioned in a separate post more about this route. As I reached Chushul, I was surprised by an army major who was adamant on not letting me go ahead further. A few of the reasons given by him and my answers:
Major: You are alone, if your bike goes down?
Me: I have all tools and toolkit with me, I will make it up.
Major: That route is not advisable, we can't let you go.
Me: I have a permit to go, why can't you let me go?
Major: Even foreigners are not allowed beyond this point.
Me: I am an Indian.
Major: I need to make a call to local police station.
Me: Plz sir, let me know what is required from my side.
Major was new and he said he hasn't seen anyone going on this route before, but I was sure as Leh SDM office gave me permit and I have heard about this route from a few of my rider friends.

After sometime, he asked one Subedar Mr.Singh to look into this, explain me the do's and don'ts and if he is convinced let me go. Mr. Singh was a Sikh and I conversed in Punjabi with him. I am translating my conversation with him in English below:

Subedar: Park your bike and come with me.
I followed him and we went into the bunkers.
Subedar: What did you had in breakfast?
I was confused. Me: Bread toast and tea.
Subedar : At what time?
Me: 8 am.
Subedar: What is the time now?
Me : It's 12:30 pm.
Subedar: Can you survive on bread toast and tea for 5 more hours?
Me: No.
Subedar asked me to remove jacket and come inside mess as it was warm inside.
And nothing else I remember other than the tasty chole bhature and curd.
Sikh regiment was there and soldiers conversed with me in Punjabi, I felt so good with their gesture and wanted to click a photo with them but was refused as it was not allowed.

Then Subedar told me to go to local police station and register a copy of permit there and then come back here, register a copy and then you can go on your route.
I went to local police station, it was very small and no one was present inside. I went further ahead into Chushul village where a lot of kids and people came out as they were not used to seeing outsiders there. Then came 2 young men, religiously dressed and a pray wheel in their hands. They introduced themselves as the cops, wow - that's so not realistic, I showed them permits and came back and registered a copy of permit and my details at the army post. Then I was told by Subedar to follow the right side of road, not to go on left as forward post of Indian army is stationed there and they would scold the Subedar if I am spotted there. I followed instructions and left Chushul. It was 2pm by now and I kept going. I couldn't spot any Dhaba, any roadside shop, villages were very thin and remote. I did the right thing by having lunch with army guys. I was in my own world, the world I dream of, I was lucky to be there. The road was very bad for some 50kms and after 1st Indo-Tibet post, the road became smooth. I crossed a few checkposts, registered a copy of permit and my details and kept moving. After reaching Nyuma in some 4 hours, I could see a tea shop. I had Maggi and tea there and met a group of fucked up contractors to army.

Those guys asked me too many personal questions in an arrogant manner like Why am I alone? Don't I care for my parents? Do I have a girlfriend? Don't I have any friends? How much do I earn? Why I am spending money like this?
As they were trying to ruin my mood I ignored them and kept talking to 2 beautiful Ladakhi sisters who were running the tea shop. They were undoubtedly impressive and charming :)

After leaving Nyuma, I took a wrong turn towards left on the bridge and had to do extra 40kms which took around 1.5 hours. After that I kept confirming with army jawans, wherever I could spot them to make sure I am on right path towards Mahe.
The sun was down as I entered my details at Mahe checkpost. From Mahe, when I started I spotted wild fox at 2 places. I kept moving towards Tso Moriri and last 20kms, I had to ride in complete dark with no road for last 10-15 kms. I couldn't see Tso Moriri on my left, but I was feeling the water, the sound of water and that absolution of nothing.
Another checkpost, just before entering Korzok the village on banks of Tso Moriri, it was 9:30pm by then and I was tired to set up camp. There was pitch darkness in the village and I got a room in dark in a home and quickly had my dinner. It was a very long day and I was tired so I slept immediately trying to retrace the day on the mattress set up on floor.

Pics:

Merak village

Kids @Chushul village

Curious locals

This is where India lost to China in 1962



Tsaga/Chagga La

Checkpost and fuel refill from the stock I carried

  8th July 2013:

 After going down to lake I came back and just thought of riding to Manali on that day. Aaah that would be a long tiring day was my counter thought but unless a ride is hard, it is no ride. Previous day ride was also long and tiring due to unknown route, wrong routes at 2 places, lot of check posts but I wanted to dedicate this day to just pure riding and nothing else. I quickly became energetic and left Korzok, I did 100kms in rough conditions and just followed the imaginary route I had in mind to hit Leh-Manali highway via Tso Kar and Debring. There was an unknown pass that I crossed on morning hours after taking left from Sumdo. In 3 hours I was having a tea with biscuits at a Dhaba in Tso Kar.

10 am at a Dhaba at Tso Kar I shared the idea of reaching Manali by evening:

Person1: Mushkil hai sham tak Manali.

Person2: Aram se pahuch jaoge raat tak.

Me: Koi jaldi nahi yaaro, 6 baje shaam ke ya 6 baje subah ke ab to Manali pahuch ke hi rukunga...

As I crossed Tso Kar, I could see barren land on either side of road with very few green pastures. I was disturbing a lot of wild mules and horses who were running away after hearing sound of my bullet. It was a wonderful sight to see a group of wild mules run and at times I used to stop, that made them have a glance at me and then shy away further.
While playing hide and seek with a lot of horses and mules, I reached Debring and in no time found myself on More plains in direction of Manali. Pang – 28kms read a sign board and it was very cold there because of dark clouds and no sun. Just before I could reach Pang, I saw a group of bikers on hired bikes with yellow number plates from the other side. At Pang, I could see a lot of rush, so I thought now no stop till Sarchu. Let me experience the fun of riding without stepping down from bike for some time. I crossed Pang, crossed Lachung La and Nakeela and descended from Gata loops. A few kms before Sarchu, I saw a group of bicycle enthusiasts, around 20 of them – some Indian and some foreigners. I waived hands before stopping at Sarchu for lunch.

As I was running short of food for my body, my ever thirsty bullet also demanded more fuel. All 13L extra was finished by now. While ordering food at Dhaba, I inquired about fuel in black and got 5 litres for Rs650. I needed it so I didn’t hesitated in buying at a premium price. Met a few travelers there who were in ac taxis and could see many question marked faces and I could sense the same question coming to me – ‘Are you traveling alone?

I was right, the same question was thrown at me by a girl and her brother. And this time I thought I would change my answer and would say what people want to hear.
Girl – ‘Are you traveling alone?’

Me – ‘Yes’

Girl – ‘Why, don’t you get bored?’ ‘Akele kaise travel kar lete ho’

Me – ‘Yes, really got bored. Will never travel again.’

Girl – ‘Wahi na, koi sath mein rahe to acha rehta hai. If there is some problem?’

Me – ‘Yes, right. Sahi kaha.’

Girl (with an idiotic giggle) – ‘And you can’t get yourself clicked as well’ (And that giggle turned into a big one)

Me – ‘Hmmm.. to ye baat hai.’

Girl – ‘Nahi ye nahi, on a serious note one can enjoy more in group and is safe also, why take risk and tension rehti hogi, par waise akele bhi sahi hai nahi?’

To her brother – ‘Yaar, ekdum roadies wali feeling aati hogi’

Me – ‘Ok then, have a safe trip’

Girl and her brother – ‘You too’


Being referred to roadies is not something a solo rider, a tourer would like to hear about himself.

They were hungry for more and I was hungry for my food. So took no time in finishing 5 chapathis, sabzi, dal, rice and gave 5 litres to my bullet before setting out for my next stop.

Crossed Baralacha La, left behind Zing Zing bar, Patseo, Jispa camp, Darcha. At Darcha check post had tea at a Nepali Dhaba.
I had some chocolates left which I distributed to kids there, I had some surplus cash left as well, so bought some more and distributed to others.

Aaah, Manali is still away and I started from Darcha. The road between Darcha and Patseo is a beautiful one. Green mountains with fresh fragrance and beautiful small hamlets with a picturesque background. I have to come here sometime again with my beloved for a romantic outing, was the thought running into my mind at that time.

I got fuel refilled at Tandi and then at Koksar at 7:45 pm, I could see lot of dark clouds a little away towards Manali. I tried scaling Rohtang pass from the other side and reach on the top in night. All the pick up trucks coming from Manali side were completely drenched and I sensed heavy rains ahead. Great, let me get ready and I put on my rain suit and continued very slowly in night as there was hell lot of slush and then it started to rain.

I reached Manali at 10pm in night after a long 16 hour almost non stop ride in one of the most beautiful and rugged routes of the world. I quickly settled in a room in Old Manali and ordered a beer and food at room itself as I was completely drenched and enjoyed beer in the cold in my blanket.

Tso Moriri



Tso Kar in background

9th July:
My last day of ride, nothing much to mention except riding in rains. I started at 12 in morning from Manali and reached 1 hour past midnight at my home in Delhi.

I hope you enjoyed the blog. Cheers!