…..AND I WENT TO LADAKH ON MY BULLET….

Prelude:

“Julley Saab” … was the first line I heard from an 8 year old kid waving at me as I zipped past him on my motorcycle. I instantly realized that I had arrived in Leh, the capital of the long lost kingdom Ladakh also called as the ‘Little Tibet’. Leh district which was a part of Greater Ladakh during the long gone ancient era now stands the administrative headquarters of the Ladakhi region. The main religion followed here is Buddhism and the staple food is Tibetan mostly Momos and Thukpa.

Leh has innumerous places to visit, for one and all. The most attractive features are the Buddhist monasteries cuddled away on the isolated hillocks near the villages. Aesthetically very sound and attractive, these monasteries give you experience of the Ladakhi faith and belief. Some of the most prominent ones being Hemis Gompa (Gompa is monastery in ladakhi) and Thiksey Gompa, Alchi, Phyang and more. Leh is also very famous for ancient palaces like the Leh Palace, Shey Palace and the Stok Palace, which are a treat to explore! Apart from that, Leh has to offer many ancient monumental structures, graciously built mosques and loads of trekking options for the high adrenaline adventure seekers! 

The beauty, landscape and the panorama leaves one gasping for breath on the road that leads to the majestic city of Leh from Manali. Words would be too few to describe the heavenly beauty that this route has to offer. In fact the Manali-Leh highway is considered to be one of the most beautiful highways in the world! Do you find that shocking? Well don’t, because it really is, a feast for the eyes!

The road winds through some of the highest mountainous passes in the world ranging from 13 500 ft to 17 800 ft! Landscapes changing from hills covered with vegetation to barren mountains and dried valleys with frozen rivers in between. With unthinkable steep inclines to plains situated at 16 000 ft! The road that remains closed for like 7 months of the year due to heavy snowfall. These 785 kilometers are a test for any biker, anywhere in the world. This is the main reason it is called the Mecca of Bikers!! And that too when the motorcycle is a classic Royal Enfield.

~Vaibhav Sabharwal

After coming back from Chakrata ride, I had a good feel of bullet in the hills. We were initially 4 guys planning to ride to Ladakh, but finally only I and Moy traveled together.  We decided to start our ride from 4^th June’2008, as Moy had to join his MBA college immediately after the ride. And it was his last day at Infosys.

We read a few articles on Ladakh and motorcycle tours to Ladakh and made a rough list of things to carry with us. A week back I went to Delhi on my bullet and got a carrier fitted from Karol Bagh bike market for 800Rs. Also sat there at the mechanic shop for 1 complete day and learnt a few basics like- changing clutch and accel wires, fixing a puncture, replacing tube, a little about connections, battery. Then completed my tool kit and came back to Chandigarh on 1^st June.

A few things what I feel is important for a motorcycle ride to Ladakh are:

Ø       Body warmers, woolen cap.

Ø      A few medicines like Diamox, Disprin, Crocin and Digene.

Ø       Bungee cords

Ø      A plastic sheet to cover bags.

Ø      A rain suit

Ø      Riding jacket

Ø      Safety gear  for riding

Ø      A good full faced helmet

Ø      A torch and a small knife

Ø      Oil for top up, empty cans for extra fuel, clutch, accel wires.

Ø      Chain lock, glucose.

Ø      Extra tube, tools, foot pump.

Though I traveled without most of the above things and have seen people traveling without these but if someone wants to be on safer side, he can carry these.

We did some shopping a day before ride and packed our bags.

Riders: Puneet Singh (Bullet Electra-5s), Shouryamaoy Das(P-180)

Ride span – 11 days

Distance covered – Around 2600kms across Haryana, Punjab, Himachal, J&K.

Map from Delhi to Khardungla 

DAY1: 4^th June’2008- Chandigarh to Manali (310kms)

After finishing my work I checked my leaves status, and around 1pm I could see approved leaves, immediately called Moy and we went to our room to tie the stuff. I found it very cumbersome, since I was doing it for the first time. But somehow we were on the highway at 3pm. Rode towards Ropar road, and continued non-stop till Sundernagar. Sundernagar is in Himachal and we realized that we had crossed 2 states – Haryana and Punjab and it’s time for a break. So we parked our bikes there and saw 2 bullets parked there. One with PIP no. plate, and one with a Delhi number. And we saw 2 guys clicking picture, we immediately realized that our destination is same.

A quick round of introduction and we were 4 now,

Amber  – 1977 model Bullet Standard 350cc

Yogi – 1997 model Bullet Machismo 350cc

We crossed Mandi at night and stopped for tea and dinner and then kept moving.

Crossed deserted market lane of Kullu around 11pm and were finally in Manali by midnight. Met a guy - Ali near bus stand, he took us to some hotel where we paid 400 per room and got 2 rooms to sleep for the night. It was raining and suddenly turned cold so we decided to settle there than to search for anything else. Before reaching Manali there was a check-post where we paid 100Rs for 4 bikes without a receipt instead of 100Rs per bike with a receipt. Illegal but....


DAY 2: 5th June 2008: MANALI- DARCHA

Our initial plan was to start early around 6am and reach Sarchu by the day end. However we started around 8:30 am and crossed Rohtang.

Pagal nalah in full flow. It was not the water but the slippery rocks beneath which made it hell to cross it.
Filled tanks at Tandi fuel station of Indian Oil, after which there was no place to get fuel for 365 kms. I took 8 liters extra for my bike. And we cruised further.
I discovered that my tool kit bag was not where it was tied in the morning, so we stopped at Keylong to collect some necessary things. It was there when we decided to take a break at Darcha. Darcha was a beautiful makeshift village which has a few tent hotels from June to November where travelers can stay. We chose one after crossing the bridge, on the river bank. There was a check-post there and we had to fill a few details there.

This was the tent hotel where we spent our night for 30Rs per person per bed. It was comfortable and clean, before sleeping we tried some local Lahauli rice beer.

Next morning we woke fresh and had a heavy breakfast at Darcha.



Day3: 6th June'2008: DARCHA- PANG


After having breakfast we started from Darcha. It was a good sunny morning and we witnessed a change in landscape, change in climate, in roads, in breeze and what not. Others were busy clicking pics and we reached Baralacha La. Pass was completely covered with fresh snow which was a delight for anyone. It was so sunny and the snow was reflecting a lot of sunlight. There we met 2 guys from Gujarat - Anshuman and Alpesh traveling on one bullet as they parked the second one in Manali due to some mechanical fault in it.

So now we were 6.

We had our lunch at Sarchu and I ate a lot there and since there is less oxygen at high altitudes it troubled me later.
At Sarchu we met a local guy who was coming from Leh alone on bike and was aiming to reach Manali.

 Gata loops

Crossed Lachungla and Nakeela after Gata loops.
At Gata loops there were marks for shortcuts, I followed one and got stuck and bike started skidding back slowly. I kept throttle on and looked for help. Everyone was coming from road and were far away and a truck driver stopped just at the road where the short cut was meeting. I saw an angel in him and hoped that I will get out of it soon.
"Tumhari wajah se yahan sab accidents hote hain aur badnaam hum log ho jaate hain" was his first bow at me, his eyes were red and I realised he won't help me. He went back and my bullet further slipped back. Now I had to switch to the right side of track so with all my courage and power I did that and somehow managed to come back on track and finally on road. I was already feeling some AMS due to over eating and now this exercise. Rested there for a couple of minutes and saw other guys passing me, waved and joined them again.


Now came the Kangla Jal and it was a challenge to cross it as there were no signs of road.

We stopped for a while and then a daring Anshuman removed his shoes and was the first one to cross it.

Our next stop was Pang. Wet clothes, AMS, over eating and breathlessness.. I proposed that we should take a halt there for night. It was 16:30 and we entered our names there at checkpoint and looked for some empty camp.
"50 Rs per bed" - an old Ladakhi looking aunty shouted pointing towards her camp. We checked in there, and took full camp hotel meant for 12 people for 600Rs. Very comfortable and they gave us lot of quilts and beddings. Amber got a some medicine for me from Army hospital and gave it to me. Yogi helped me with a ot of things and these guys opened their Old monk and started drinking. I slept only to wake up at 8 a.m. in the morning. Iwas feeling perfect now and looked out of the camp. A river wa flowing behind us and people were comforting themselves there. I too sat there with Moy and we discussed about our plan for the coming days. Amber was fixing Anshuman's bike and by 10:30 we were ready to hit the roads again.

"How are you feeling now" - Amber asked me.
"I am fine, thanks for the medicine last night"
Amber - "Welcome, it was just a disprin and nothing else"
"Oh" and I kept thinking psychology has some role to play in dealing with AMS.

DAY4: 7th June'2008: Pang to Leh

The first place to stop on day 4 was an amazing desert at above 4000m altitude asl.
I could never imagine there can be some place as beautiful and unique as this on the way.

And the best part about this stretch was 'No road'  and a rider was free to make his own way there.

The next pass in waiting was TangLang La. I had heard a lot about it but when we were on the top I thought I probably heard rumors as it was quite an easy ascend only to find a tough descending way ahead. Thanks to a few road construction workers who were clearing snow from the road everyone descended smoothly.

A few trucks coming from other side were stuck when we were descending, that gave us a tough time to find our way. Snow on road, braking system of bullet and the trucks, all played against us. But those workers were kind enough to push and lift the bikes. I wanted to click pictures of that stretch but it was hard to balance the bike so I concentrated on getting out of it first.

Inside view of temple at TangLang La.

From Tanglang La we did a continuous run till Rumtse where we had our lunch. Had good food and tea at a roadside dhaba. On the way to Upshi there was some trouble in Anshuman's bullet so I and Moy went ahead of the group to book a room in Leh.
After some searching we got 3 rooms in a very nice home cum hotel in Leh.

Rumste village

Way to Upshi

Upshi

From Upshi to Thiksey

 Thiksey monastery

Our room at Leh
















After settling down in the hotel I called my parents and a few friends to let them know about my whereabouts.


DAY 5: 8th June'2008: In and around Leh

Though we did Manali- Leh quite leisurely, still we kept this day as rest day and visited a few monastries and palaces around Leh. Like Leh palace, shey palace, Stok palace, Shanti stupa and a few more.
Met a Japanese man in Stok palace who walked 10kms to visit this palace and was staying in Leh from last 3.5 years.

Shey palace

At Shanti Stupa

Leh palace

Then we went to Leh bazaar and finally came back to our hotel room and slept early that night. We planned for going to Nubra valley the next morning via Khardungla - highest motorable road in world at an altitude of 18380 feet.

Day 6 : 9th June'2008: Leh - Khardungla - Leh
After getting permits from DC office at Leh we ascended towards Khardungla. It was an easy 38km ride from Leh to Khardungla. When we reached there, it started raining and we took shelter at a small Dhaba and had Maggi and tea there. Then we started talking to the army guys over there and dropped the idea of going ahead to Nubra valley, instead chose the option of sliding in snow with the army men.  We had a good time with those guys, they told us about their stories, families back home and the time they will be released to some other place. Staying at 18380 feet is not easy, with oxygen level falling down and nail biting cold every night. Their huts had kerosene lamps, they burned kerosene to maintain the temperature inside for them to sustain.

Sliding was fun, but snow powder on us melted and for me climbing up to the road suddenly looked a tough job. Immediately after we were at the pass, the army guys offered us to dry our clothes in their huts. We went inside and had a good time there, relaxing in front of kerosene stoves and packed juice.

On our way back to Leh, I had my first fall from bike. I switched off the engine and was driving in neutral, was doing well but that one turn was not negotiable for me and I fell down and bullet was some 20 metres ahead. Everyone in the group were way behind so I somehow managed to get up and park the bike and waited for others to come. When I saw the deep gorge on the left side of road I felt so lucky to escape unhurt.

Spent a leisurely evening at our guest house and got ourselves prepared for going to Pangong Lake the next morning.


Day 7 : 10th June'2008 Leh - Pangong lake - Leh (300kms)


Next morning we started for Pangong lake and were joined by two more guys who worked with Yogi and Amber. We were 6 now with Anshuman and Alpesh preferring to stay back and wait for other friends and visit Pangong with them some other day. We had all the permits with us and started heading for Pangong. Encountered mighty Chang-la on the way where army guys offer free tea to all the visitors.


There was a small rock slide on the way and we were stuck in traffic for some time at a place resembling a rocky river bed. around 30 kms before the lake. Finally we reached the lake, it was beautiful, most beautiful of all the places I have ever visited or seen. The lake changed its colors with the changing angle of sun. Pangong lake on Indo-China border has 40kms in India and 80kms in Chinese territory. In winters it gets frozen and the army vehicles can cross the lake, whereas they had motor boats for patrolling in summers.

A few pics of Pangong lake:

On our way back from Pangong, we experienced certain streams overflowing on the road but somehow we managed to reach Leh by 8pm. A few beers and a nice dinner awaited us - Moy and I .

Day8: 11th June'2008: Leh - Kargil (220kms)


Moy had to join his MBA college so we decided to say goodbye to Leh. That morning my 3 friends - Rahul, Raunaq and Sukhi were in army camp Leh and I went there to meet them. They told me about a few difficulties they faced on the way to Leh. After chatting for sometime I came back to our hotel and packed our stuff, said goodbye to the owner, exchanged email ids and left LEh at 3 pm.
With a heavy heart and a promise to visit the place again we left Leh and our friends there.

On the road towards Kargill saw a few foreigners trying off-road biking, then came Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. Visited the Gurudwara, had a cup of tea there and were told that army manages the gurudwara.

On our way to Kargil we finally managed to see magnetic hill point. I had heard a lot about it, that there is some magnetic hill that defies the phenomenon of gravity and finally I witnessed it. I tried and there was very less friction for bike on both the sides. I was not able to recognize which was uphill and which side was downhill.

I gave lift to a few kids on the way, and was surprised to see where they got down. There was no village in vicinity but the kid told me that his village is behind a few hills and he will reach there in 45 minutes. I was amazed at the way those guys spend their life there.

Lamayuru Monastery

Dark clouds were hovering over us but sun was perfect and the clicked pictures looked amazing. I really liked the landscape, the sun, the shade and the road. Road upto Kargil was good to ensure smooth flow of army trucks.

We reached Kargil in 6 hours, at around 8:45 pm. There was no room availability, a few hotels were very costly and few ones were bad, stinky. As the government buses from Leh to Srinagar and Srinagar to Leh stops there for night and we were already late so after talking to a few local boys we got a room in a small hotel for 250Rs. I parked my bike outside the hotel and when we came out for unloading our stuff I was surprised to see a bag lifted from there. I didn't liked that, but then Kargil had many laborers and people working at Dhaba from other parts of India so it just happened.

Late in night our hotel owner took us to a hidden restaurant deep inside lanes of Kargil and we had  good meat over there. Came back to hotel and we slept, it was just a night that we had to spend there.

"Sir, jaldi bahar aao" and sound of door knocks was the first thing that we heard in morning, I looked at my watch it was 7:30 am. We didn't liked that unfriendly knocks on the door, but when we opened the door the hotel owner asked us to stay inside the hotel as there was some protests against an accident that killed a local boy a few days back. We were told that whole bazaar is closed and no traffic movement will be allowed till the evening. We got ready in 10 minutes and immediately left the place. The protests were in starting phase so we left unharmed.

Just outside Kargil, there was a fuel station but there was no electricity. Waited there for sometime, and we met 2 guys - 1 was a local cop and other was a contractor whose unit was waiting for him at Draupdi Kund - a place ahead of Drass. They asked us for a lift upto Drass as there was no public transport and we agreed.



Day9: 12th June'2008: Kargil - Drass - Srinagar - Banihal


And we started.from Kargil at 9 a.m. with a pillion on both the bikes. The cop told me about the Pakistani hills on the right side of road and we saw boards there with 'You are under enemy observation' and the cop didn't allowed me to stop anywhere before Drass war memorial.

We kept moving till Drass and there the cop left for his place. The other guy with Moy offered us lunch and we sat with him at a Dhaba in Drass town. Then we hurried up as we wanted to cover as much as possible that day.

This is where we dropped the local guy at Draupdi Kund

Road towards Zojila

At around 3 in evening we crossed Zojila - the dreaded pass. We ate lot of dust there, thanks to an army convoy. Stopped for tea and pakodas at Sonamarg.

From Zojila towards Sonamarg

Road from Sonamarg to Srinagar

White water at Sonamarg

We stopped at Srinagar for dinner and then  decided to move further to finally take halt in night at a guest house in Banihal.

The famous Dal lake of Srinagar looked dull

Day10: 13th June'2008: Banihal - Jammu - Chandigarh

After having breakfast, we started again. Jammu - Srinagar highway was crowded as anything. We were lucky to be allowed by an army major to follow him, so we could easily navigate through the crowded highway and reach Udaipur. Stopped somewhere before Katra for lunch and then rode almost non stop till some place in Punjab where we had our dinner. We were tired and wanted to hit Chandigarh and crash in asap. At around 10pm in night we were back from a journey to heaven after covering world's highest motorable road at 18,390 metres which is open for tourists, not talking about Marsimik La here :).
In all 9 passes, and around 2500 kms in 10days.