The unplanned ride to the dreaded Sach Pass and beyond

Sach Pass: A mountain pass at an altitude of 4415 meters or  14480 feet, connecting Chamba and Pangi valley.

The Riders : Puneet, Vaibhav, Sandeep and Sudhanshu

The Bikes: Bullet, CBZ Xtreme, P180 and CBZ Xtreme

The route: Chandigarh – Pathankot – Chamba – Sach Pass – Killad – Cherry – Udaipur – Tandi – Rohtang Pass – Manali – Kullu – Aut – Banjara – Shoja – Jalori Pass – Luhri – Sainjh – Narkanda – Kufri – shimla – Chandigarh

* Photographs had been clicked by all 4 of us, collated and used by Vaibhav in his blog of the same ride

After my last 3 rides with Moy, this time I didn’t had any stable riding partner. Moy left for MDI, and in the month of August there was a one day ride to Morni Hills of around 20 bikers. I met many guys there, Sandeep was there as well but frankly speaking couldn’t find any one with serious touring intentions barring Sandeep at the start. On the Morni Hills ride, I was the last one riding leisurely and till now the only veteran having done Ladakh ride. And suddenly at a turn a speeding CBZ crossed me. I somehow followed the guy and in a short time we reached Tikkar Tal. While other guys were busy clicking and ordering food, I went straight to the bench at the lakeside and was about to open my bag, needless to say I had a beer.

And then I saw that guy the CBZian again, and he came there and sat beside me. A quick round of introduction, I had read Vaibhav’s solo ride travelogue so I sense of liked the courage and attitude of this guy. And he also brought beers for himself.

I don’t have to share my beers, was the first thought that came into my mind at that instance. We had a good time there and discussed a lot about touring, bikes and all. We shared a common passion of touring, riding and yes these talks always interest us.

Back to our office and we wanted to do a ride together. One fine evening – Me, Sandeep, Sudhanshu and Vaibhav planned for a ride to Chamba and beyond.

A Thursday in first week of October 2009 was selected and here we were on the road for next 4 days covering 3 high altitude passes.

Day1 : Chandigarh – Banikhet – Chamba

We left from Infy Chandigarh office at 3pm instead of planned 1pm and rode towards Pathankot, took a wrong turn and by mistake started riding on the road to Sirhind. We had to ask for the route from locals and were back on the right track and reached Pathankot in around 5 hours and assembled at the right cut towards Chamba. From there, we kept moving up to Banikhet  and reached there at 10pm.
From Banikhet, one can either take the road towards Chamba or Dalhousie. We had our dinner at Banikhet and finally could reach Chamba by 12 midnight. Got a room for 4 and just before sleeping Vaibhav raised the idea of going to Sach Pass. We didn’t knew what it is, all of us were sleepy and as Vaibhav described the route and gave us hints, we slept. 

"So, we are all going in morning to Sach Pass?" Vaibhav finished his statement with a question, I could only remember.

"Yes, we will, abhi so ja and sone de".  We slept and the ride to SACH PASS started in another 5 hours :)

A farm in Punjab near Dasua

 

Our hotel entrance in Chamba

Day 2: Chamba – Pukhri – Koti – Kalhel – Sach Pass – Killad – Pangi

“Beep beep”, a similar alarm tone at 5 a.m. and we all woke up and got ready at 6a.m. We started after asking the way from a local guy and were set out from our hotel room. 
We had to look for an ATM and then for a petrol pump, after getting our pockets and bikes filled we took the road towards Kalhel.
Before Kalhel, I had a fall from my bike which broke my front brake completely, so now I had a bullet with only rear drum brakes to take on the mighty Sach pass. At first I was not very convinced if I could do this, but then Sandeep and Vaibhav were encouraging enough to keep me going. We had breakfast at Kalhel and it was there when we decided to ride till Sach pass, cross it and come out from Tandi - Rohtang side.
An interesting story here, just when we enquired about our way further, we were told by locals about a temple on the way where we should stop, bow our heads, think about god and go ahead otherwise we might fall. All stories of hills, I thought and was going slowly, just when I thought I wouldn't stop at any temple, I could see it ahead and I slipped. I don't know how, but so far this was the first slip of that magnitude for me wherein I damaged my front brakes, mirror and broke the clamp. And I kept wondering, how is this possible?
As we started again after breakfast, I was driving cautiously and clicking pictures as well, so was not able to catch up with the speeding trio.
A few kms before Satrundi check post road started converting into path and path into raw path. It was a steep way uphill and buses could not cross that road, people had to get down some 25 kms before Sach pass and travel in a jeep or by foot up to some 25 kms on the other side of pass from where they could again catch the bus.
The cops at check post couldn't really understand the purpose of our visit.
"Bhai ghumna hai to dilli ghumo, shimla jao, agra jao..yahan pe to kuch hai nahi ghumne layak, rasta bhi khatarnak hai". I looked at Vaibhav and we smiled, we got our reason confirmed to go to Sach Pass.

While we were riding, bullet was in a comfortable position, I could vary my speed but other bikes were breathing very hard.
And we reached Sach top after riding on bad broken path, which was steep and narrow.
I felt excited, that 1 moment of climbing Sach pass made me happy. We sat there for sometime, talked about further plan. And we thought that was it, the toughest part is over now and we can relax a bit our ride ahead.
But we were wrong, as we started descended I suffered the most, without front brakes I could hardly manage the weight of bike and at many points had to use power of my legs to stop or use gear and switch off the engine.
It was very tiring and we kept taking a few breaks to rest our back and ass. Had our next tea with a few jawans of BRO and we asked them about the no. of kms left before this sharp descend and rocky paths disappear. They told us that you will cover the next 30kms in 3 hours and we immediately realized the worst is yet to come.
It was hell tiring and a challenge to do that stretch but we all did it slowly.

At first we planned to stay at Killad, but when we reached Killad there was still some light left for the day so we headed further towards Cherry. It was a completely isolated village, far away from crowd, sleeping in the lap of Himalayas with no regular electricity and very few basic amenities. People were very simple and they hadn't traveled much outside the Pangi valley.
We got a nice government rest house, and after freshening up we walked to a Dhaba in village for dinner.
We had a word with the Dhaba owner who told us that Pangi valley is very remote and till very recent they had to go all the way from Rohtang - Manali - Pathankot covering hundreds of kms to go to Chamba side which was barely 80 kms via Sach pass. Also we were told that Pangi division has 3-4 days time relaxation for sending letters or while submitting university forms etc.
Wait, wait, wait... they read a day's old newspaper everyday. And there was hardly any link with the outer world, no internet, very less signals, no cable. And another guy told us how they walk till Chamba by foot in a day and are not tired and sometimes return during the night as well. Whoa.. crazy guy, I must say.
Now as the night progressed vaibhav and we were looking for something to drink, and yes we were in Lahaul district so rice beer would perfectly do for us. The lady at the Dhaba prepared 2 big fresh jugs of rice beer which costed us 25 per jug. And we drank ruthlessly, as Sandeep and Sudhanshu watched. Then all of us had a nice, simple dinner and after paying the bill I still can't remind anything... how we came out of dhaba, who brought us to the room, removed our shoes and all. Thanks to Sandeep and Sudhanshu, me and Vaibhav slept safe and sound :)

Pics from Day 2

On the way to Kalhel

Stop for breakfast

 

Another stop for munching and regrouping

The road leading to Sach Pass

On these boulders, bullet was fine while other bikes needed half gear in first gear

That's me, without front brake lever

Sudhanshu posing

Random villagers, we were so surprised to see someone after a long time.

Police checkpost at Satrundi where license is checked and entry is made

Just before Sach Pass

Sandeep rejoicing

The 4 riders

Distance chart

After Sach pass towards Pangi valley

Unmanned temple on top of Sach pass

B

Breathtaking vistas after Sach Pass

Time for some rest

One of the many streams on the route

Crossing

Having tea with BRO(Border Roads Organization) jawans

Now who will call it a road?

I remember how excited we were while crossing this one.

Natural water fall making it slippery

Day3 : Cherry - Udaipur - Tandi - Rohtang - Manali (215kms)

I woke up at 6, thanks to loud snoring of Vaibhav, but Sandeep and Sudhanshu were up and had already ordered tea. We came out in the garden of rest house, a fresh morning with cool breeze, clear sky and fragrance of trees was awaiting us. It was a good view and we left Cherry at around 8:30 a.m.

Our guest house in Cherry

The village Cherry bus stop

Dhaba where we had Jhang

Vaibhav negotiating some rocks

With some brave village boys of Pangi valley

The road till Udaipur was bad, and we were riding at an average speed of 18-20km/hr. 

 

There was no place to eat on the way and after reaching Udaipur food was the first priority. Ordered a few omlettes and then ate around 80 momos. Momos were very cheap there 8 for 10Rs.

I was not aware of where this road will open and when. In a short time we were at Manali - Leh highway, but we had to go towards Manali and not Leh from Tandi.

This board looked familiar

And since we were in hurry to reach Manali, we kept moving after refilling tanks in Tandi.
Crossed Rohtang, reached Manali and got a room in hotel Summer King.

Just before Manali we re assembled and it was decided that we'll stay at Old manali. And then Vaibhav and Sandeep started racing and they suddenly disappeared. I reached Old Manali and called them to know they are here only. After lots of confusion it became apparent that they were in Aleo region, they got 2 nice rooms there and Vaibhav mistook that region as Old Manali. I was angry at first and Vaibhav knew a few drinks can appease me. So he was ready with his next plan for the night. Beer, vodka and food at Johnson cafe in Old manali.
Since it was off season, we got a nice room @200 Rs only with TV, hot water, neat beddings, balcony and all.

And we came back to our room and slept till 9:30 a.m. in the morning. I switched on the TV and there were news of Delhi serial bombings. We called at our homes to find everyone safe, and I thought people say it's risky to ride a motorcycle in hills, but it is so safe here.


Day4 : Manali - Kullu - Aut - Jalori - Shimla - Chandigarh
After some time we started moving towards Kullu. i got my brakes repaired there at a mechanic and then we had food at a riverside restaurant. Suddenly, Sandeep and Vaibhav started discussing about Jalori pass with a few locals and I immediately realized we are going to ride on another pass soon.

Sach, Rohtang and now it was the turn of Jalori.

Tirthan valley was a beautiful place and must to go for any type of traveler. It is easily accessible from either Bilaspur - mandi - Aut side or via Shimla - Narkanda - Sainjh.

Sudhanshu took a wrong turn somewhere and we waited for more than an hour for him at the top of Jalori pass. And when we turned our bikes back we saw him coming towards the top.

"He had actually trailed a bus on a wrong path which took him 25 kms in a wrong direction, futher which there was no road…So it was a 50 km wrong loop which caused all that delay..Anyhow, we were glad that all was well and turned out to ride as planned…" from Vaibhav's log.

And again we kept moving towards Sainjh from where we took a right turn towards Narkhanda and then took Shimla - Chandigarh highway to be back by 12 midnight.

We had ridden over 1200 kms and visited 4 districts of Himachal in these 4 days..

These days had been really tough …But as they say… “When the going gets tough, the tough get going!


~Puneet Singh