A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!
The best village to stay on banks of Pangong lake in my opinion is Spangmik, a beautiful drive of 7kms along the lake.
From Spangmik (Pangong Lake) to go to Tso Moriri, one has options - either to retrace back to Karu, drive to Upshi and take the road to Mahe from Upshi and right from Mahe to Karzok village on banks of Tso Moriri.
The second option, that is more secluded, more remote, more beautiful and with less roads, with less eateries set up for tourists, along the Chinese border is the road via the village Maan, Merak.
From Spangmik to Maan to Merak. After you cross Merak you will see Pangong lake deviating left. There is no road, no signboard present there. You just need to take the path a little towards right after village Merak. You will see a bridge on left, don't take it.
Be on right side path and continue following that road. You will reach this place:
After you reach this place, go straight and you will reach Chushul village. Make sure you are not following road to village Parmar from there, else you will again get on wrong road to Tangste via Parmar.
At Chushul, get friendly with army guys. They will give you some instructions about not taking the road left even accidently :) as China border is near. From Chushul, keep going straight. The first village after 31kms is Tsaga village. There is one ITBP post named as Tsaga post. After Tsaga, you will reach Loma post. If you take left from Loma post (prohibited), you will reach very close to China. There is only one day in an year when you can go to Loma village - The birthday of Dalai Lama. From Loma, in night you can see China and the lights at Chinese post. Except that one day, for all other days, you will take the straight road from Loma and reach Nyuma. Nyuma is a comparatively bigger village with only 1 tea stall. So after Spangmik, Nyuma is the place where you will get tea and Maggi to eat. In between, there is absolutely nothing, so make your arrangements.
There is BSNL network working in Nyuma and a diesel fuel station (which remains closed most of the time).
From Nyuma, go straight, there is a bridge on left. Don't take it, get on your right side and cross Nyuma military base. Keep going straight to reach Mahe(another in Changthang area. From Mahe Check post, take left for Sumdo. From Sumdo, again left and reach an unidentified lake, straight from there and you reach KArzok on banks of Tso Moriri. There are options of homestay (not really clean), take your tent or stay in the tent accommodation there at lake side.
This route from Pangong lake to Tso Moriri will require you have extra permits.
2 at Chushul, 1 at Tara, 1 at Loma, 1 at Mahe. So 4 extra copies of permits are required, in addition to 1 being checked at Karu and 1 at Tangste.
So from Leh to Pangong lake to Tso Moriri, you will require 7 copies of your ILP (Inner Line Permit).
And don't forget to mention in your permit places like Nyuma, Chushul and Tsaga.
If you go from Leh - Khardungla - Nubra - WariLa - Sakthi - Changla - Pangong lake - Tso Moriri route, you will require 9 copies of you ILP. So don't hesitate in taking photostats of your permit and extra fuel for
your trip. If you have any queries on this route, leave a comment and I will get back to you. Cheers and enjoy your trip.
The best village to stay on banks of Pangong lake in my opinion is Spangmik, a beautiful drive of 7kms along the lake.
From Spangmik (Pangong Lake) to go to Tso Moriri, one has options - either to retrace back to Karu, drive to Upshi and take the road to Mahe from Upshi and right from Mahe to Karzok village on banks of Tso Moriri.
The second option, that is more secluded, more remote, more beautiful and with less roads, with less eateries set up for tourists, along the Chinese border is the road via the village Maan, Merak.
From Spangmik to Maan to Merak. After you cross Merak you will see Pangong lake deviating left. There is no road, no signboard present there. You just need to take the path a little towards right after village Merak. You will see a bridge on left, don't take it.
 |
| If you reach this point, you are on WRONG WAY. GO BACK AND TAKE LEFT ROAD |
Be on right side path and continue following that road. You will reach this place:
 |
| Distinct path seen on top of plateau, keep following |
After you reach this place, go straight and you will reach Chushul village. Make sure you are not following road to village Parmar from there, else you will again get on wrong road to Tangste via Parmar.
At Chushul, get friendly with army guys. They will give you some instructions about not taking the road left even accidently :) as China border is near. From Chushul, keep going straight. The first village after 31kms is Tsaga village. There is one ITBP post named as Tsaga post. After Tsaga, you will reach Loma post. If you take left from Loma post (prohibited), you will reach very close to China. There is only one day in an year when you can go to Loma village - The birthday of Dalai Lama. From Loma, in night you can see China and the lights at Chinese post. Except that one day, for all other days, you will take the straight road from Loma and reach Nyuma. Nyuma is a comparatively bigger village with only 1 tea stall. So after Spangmik, Nyuma is the place where you will get tea and Maggi to eat. In between, there is absolutely nothing, so make your arrangements.
There is BSNL network working in Nyuma and a diesel fuel station (which remains closed most of the time).
From Nyuma, go straight, there is a bridge on left. Don't take it, get on your right side and cross Nyuma military base. Keep going straight to reach Mahe(another in Changthang area. From Mahe Check post, take left for Sumdo. From Sumdo, again left and reach an unidentified lake, straight from there and you reach KArzok on banks of Tso Moriri. There are options of homestay (not really clean), take your tent or stay in the tent accommodation there at lake side.
This route from Pangong lake to Tso Moriri will require you have extra permits.
2 at Chushul, 1 at Tara, 1 at Loma, 1 at Mahe. So 4 extra copies of permits are required, in addition to 1 being checked at Karu and 1 at Tangste.
So from Leh to Pangong lake to Tso Moriri, you will require 7 copies of your ILP (Inner Line Permit).
And don't forget to mention in your permit places like Nyuma, Chushul and Tsaga.
If you go from Leh - Khardungla - Nubra - WariLa - Sakthi - Changla - Pangong lake - Tso Moriri route, you will require 9 copies of you ILP. So don't hesitate in taking photostats of your permit and extra fuel for
your trip. If you have any queries on this route, leave a comment and I will get back to you. Cheers and enjoy your trip.
 |
| The beautiful way from Maan Merak to Chushul along Pangong lake |
 |
| Tso Moriri Lake |
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAgain Puneet Bhai. you have proved yourself as a true rider.
ReplyDeleteThere are two type of people in this world, 1.) who dream of doing things, 2.) Who dream and achieve them. you are the second one.
Hope you ride happily in future too. :)
Thanks Sourabh. Your help played a big role in my ride bro. I hope you hit highways more often in future.
DeleteCheers.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteGreat Puneet your journey is dream to many bikers you have proved once again stop dreaming start biking.............
ReplyDeleteThanks for appreciation Zaffer.
DeletePuneet,
ReplyDeleteThanks for post, the information is very helpful. The photos are awesome.
I am planning my trip and will be startting from Delhi in 6days time.
From Manali, i plan to go to Tso Kar and then on to Pangong through Merak, Spangmik.
Could you advice whether I need the inner line permit for this route?
Thank you very much.
Anand
Hi Anand,
DeleteYes you will require ILP for this route. You can only reach Tso Kar without permit. From TsoKar, if you go towards Merak and Spangmik, you will be stopped at MAhe post.. then Loma post, then Tara post and then Chushul post.
If from Tso Kar, you come to Upshi and try going to Pangong through Changla, again you will require ILP for Tangste post.
So Anand, in my opinion you get a permit and mention names of places like Tso Kar, Mahe, Tsaga, Chushul, Pangong lake on permit.
All the best for your ride.
Thanks Puneet.
DeleteTwo more questions
a. Other than Leh, where can I get the permits? Are the permits available at Pangunagu or Sarchu or Sumdo?
b. From Tso-kar, if i plan the route Tso moriri, Mahe and then Leh through Upshi. are permits required?
-Anand
a)Surely not in Sarchu or Sumdo.. Leh and may be in Manali.. but not sure about Manali..
Deleteb) Yes you will require permit at Tso Moriri (ITBP check post).
Hi Puneet,
ReplyDeleteyour works are awesome! and we require a little help from Pangong tso to tso moriri, actually we have decided a route like this-Spangmik - Man(9kms) - Merak (12kms) - Kakstet (4.6kms) - Nama (21kms) - head east towards Tasaka road after 1.3 km turn right for chumathang(48kms)
-Mahe(19kms) straight 800mts and turn right - J&K police check post (4.4kms) - take left to Sumdo (12kms) - Karzok/Tso Moriri (48Kms), since it is shortest compared to loma route can we take this and is it motorable. P.S. we are travelling by motorcycle 8 members
Thanks
Ramesh Krishnan.R
Hi ramesh, i would have loved to help you but haven't been on the route that you mentioned. But you must go ahead with this route and update us once you are back. All routes can be done, keep talking to locals at pangong before starting, those will be your best guides. Cheers and have safe ride.
DeleteHi Puneet,
Deletethanks for your reply, all i have seen in google maps, dont know what reality is! anyways we ll be going in june end and will update about the same.
Thanks
Ramesh
Cool. But if you want to take my advice, I would suggest keep maps back at home and I am sure you will love to get lost in the lap of nature. :) Keep talking to locals and find your ways there itself instead of planning it before starting ride. Else the route I took is also very nice, via Chushul and Tsaga La. Cheers.
DeleteHi Puneet,
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing such a vivid detailing of the route.For my understanding pl help to get the following infos:
1.Can i travel by car from Spangmik - Maan- Nyoma route
2.If yes then who provides permits ITBP or Military
I will be highly obliged if you kindly post these infos.
Regards
Dibyendu
Hi Puneet,
DeleteMissed out one important info:
By car how many days require to cover Spangmik - Maan- Nyoma-Tsomoriri route
Thanks
Dibyendu
Puneet,
Deletethanks for your guidance
Ramesh
Hi dibyendu.
Delete1. Yes you can travel by car. Will take 1 day.
2. Permits provided by dc office in leh. It is easy. And i even heard that from this year indians may not need permits. But do check at dc office in leh.
hi, we are reaching to leh on 2/06/2014, planing to de leh-nubra-pangong- moriri , will the roads be open at this time as manali leh is still closed
ReplyDeleteFollow leh.nic.in ..can't say anything as there is no fixed time when road opens..
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteWas wondering if there is any accommodation close to Pangong Tso Lake - but after Spangmik. We do not want to stay amongst all the tourists and were looking for something more remote. Thanks
Yes there is homestay in village merak. That is really remote.
DeleteIn village maan there is a small guesthouse in middle of small village along lake. Generally no tourists stay there, woukd be worth a try. Cheers.
DeleteNice update Puneet, I might follow this route in a week
ReplyDeleteHI puneeth ,
ReplyDeleteIt felt really exciting and good to visit and read your blog/experiences.
We are planning for leh-nubrah-pangong . With an innova and 3 bikes. How difficult it is to go through this road??
I have gone through some blogs and their experiences (adventurous) and very risky.
http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/adventures-shyok-village-route-ladakh-2012/#comment-42393
Any suggestions?
Hi Puneet. A wonderful and informative blog. i am also planning a ladakh trip.Planned day of start is 6 sep in XUV
ReplyDeleteDay1: Amritsar to Srinagar
Day2: Srinagar to Kargil
Day3: Kargil to leh
Day4,5: Leh
Day6: Leh to Nubra valley
Day7: nubra to Pangong tso
Day8: Pangong to Tso moriri
Day9: Tso Moriri to jispa
Day10: Jispa to Manali
Day11: Manali to Asr
The queries are.
1. Nubra to pangong: How much time will it take and are the roads ok?
2. Pangong to tso moriri: Which route should be preffered- Karu-ushi-Mahe OR Maan-Merak-Mahe considering the time constraints and the roads.
3. Tso moriri to Manali: Should we break the journey at Sarchu or jispa considering the travel time.
Any other suggestion is also welcome.
I hope I was able to help your queries through mail, still if you want to ask something let me know. Now I am back in India and more active :) Cheers and have fun.
DeleteHi Puneet...
ReplyDeleteThanks for the detailed info. we were scratching our heads on how to go to Tso Moriri from Pangong directly without having to come back to Upshi or Leh. This info will really help.
Two of us riding to Leh frm Shimla-poo-kaza-keylong route on KTM Duke (Which has very low fuel economy of around 200 km on full tank) and like to know if there is fuel available in black en route to Tso Moriri from panagong. We will be carrying fuel can of around 10 lit with us for each bike. we do not want to go back to Upshi or Leh for fuel if possible....Thanks for your help.
http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/india-travel-basics-f54/fuel-availability-ladakh-zanskar-t54338/
Deletefound this link on BMC Touring.
Puneet,
ReplyDeleteYou have done a superb job.
I've heard that the army may cancel the permit at any time in Chushul. Is it true? If yes then where I can get the exact information about the condition of Chushul? Is it the driver or DC office at Leh or the hotel guys at Spangmik-who can give us the right information?
Thanks in advance,
Soham
Thanks Soham. Best would be DC office
DeleteHi Puneet,
ReplyDeleteI am planning to take the below mentioned route to reach Nubra Valley, Pangong, Tomoriri and back to Leh
Leh - Diskit - Turtuk - Panamik - Wari La - Sakti - Karu - Tangtse - Pangong - Chushul - Hanle - Tsomoriri - Tsokar - Chumatang - Upshi - Leh
1) How many days will it take for approximately ( +/- 1 day) in order to cover the places that I have mentioned above on a motorcycle?
2) How much fuel should I have to carry on my bike in order to cover this route?
3) I am a solo bike rider planning this trip in the second half of July. What are the options in hand in case of bike breakdown? Could you comment on the availability of a mechanic/army help/any other help in case I am stranded?
4) Could you guide me on the detailed route which I will have to take to suit me best, also comment if I can add/delete any place?
Thanks in Advance :)
1) Take 6 days for the entire route. Consider going to Panamic and then towards Disket. Stay in Disket (1st night), next day go to Turtuk, spend time there and back in Hunder (stay in Diskit). 3rd day - Disket - wari la - pangong (stay there at Sangmik).
Delete4th day - Spangmik - Hanle (via chushul). stay in hanle.
5th day - hanle - tso moriri (stay there in Korzok)
6th Day - Korzok - Tsokar, from tsokar either move back towards chumathang - upshi or hit manali - leh highway - tanglangla - upshi and leh.
so 6-7 days are good enough to cover this route at a normal pace.
2) for fuel, i suggest you carry 30-40 litres extra after filling up full in Leh. Else, you may get fuel at a few places like Tangste.
3) No options, you need to carry a tool kit, puncture kit, extra spares and tube etc. You can find a fellow bulleteer who will stop if you wave at him for sure to help but do your homework.
4) Leh - khardungla - Nubra - panamic - retrace the route and reach towards Disket.
> Disket - turtuk - disket
> Disket - Wari la - serthi or sakthi - changla - durbuk - spangmik
> Spangmik - chushul - hanle (need to find directions from army guys or checkposts) etc.
> Hanle - Korzok - tsomoriri (check my blog post on route from pangong to tsomoriri)
> Korzok - tsokar - debring - then right on manali-leh highway and straight road to leh via tanglangla, upshi, karu (u l get fuel here).
Cheers and all the best for your ride...
Thanks. I have about 8 days to complete this entire route. Glad to know it will be doable at a normal pace in 6-7 days. I will post about my experiences once I am back :)
DeleteIs it possible to do Pangong to Tsomori in a Hatchback(Honda Jazz) in mid Sept??
ReplyDeleteYes it is possible..
DeleteHi.Thanks a lot for your reply.Is it possible to talk to you if you don't mind as I am bit tensed as people are recommending cars with high ground clearance for this route(from different post I read).my email id is sen.priyanka25@gmail.com)
ReplyDeleteHi Priyanka, which car are you planning to use for this route?
DeleteHonda Jazz which is a hatchback..Also can you help me which is the most beautiful part in the entire journey from pangong to tsomoriri.in case your answer is no with jazz,is it possible to do till Man Merak and come back to Leh.Cover the Mahe-Nyoma-loma-hanle-loma-Tsomoriri.also can jazz reach till Man Merak??
DeleteThe roads on this route at some places are very good as well, it is a mix of good and bad roads. If I was in your place, I would have gone ahead with Jazz on this route.
DeleteJust after Spangmik, the roads are really not good upto a few kms before Chushul. So be prepared for it.
Most beautiful is just after Man, Merak on your right will be beautiful hills and left will be Pangong. And then Chushul village is beautiful with so many curious people and kids.
For some people the route might be a bit boring as there are hardly any roadside eateries or Dhabas, except the one in Nyuma. So keep some stuff to eat with you as well.
Hey, Planning to visit ladakh!
ReplyDeleteHyderabad-Srinagar (FLIGHT)
Srinagar-Leh by road (Via Kargil)
Leh-Khadrung La pass-Nubra Valley-Pangong Lake- Tsomori Lake-Leh
the queries are-
1. How much time will it take to reach leh from srinagar by road (With minimal stops)
2. how many days will it take to visit all the places mentioned above in leh
3. Best place for an overnight stay.
My mail id is sanghigaurav12@gmail.com
Hi Gaurav:
Delete1) 1 day by car, 2 days by bus.
2) Depends on how much time you want to spend at each place. You can visit all the places in LEH in 1 day, but Ladakh is big you need more days if you want to move out of Leh. The places you mentioned are in Ladakh, not in Leh and the above can be done in 4 days easily by your private vehicle. And if you go slow you might need more time.
3) Depends on your taste, my best is camp or a cheap backpackers accommodation. Your best can be different.
A general suggestion, don't go there to touch and move. Just be there for some time, enjoy the nature.
Thankyou so much! Pleased with your suggestions. :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteOne more query,
ReplyDeleteCan you please suggest me some good accomadations in which 3-4 person can sleep in a room and some cheap and good accomadation.
Will be of a great help.
So In Leh, you can go to Chanspa road and head to Larchung or Rinchen guest house. It is good and cheap. You can find one easily once you are there.
DeleteIn Nubra valley, I suggest stay in Disket (if you stay overnight) Good and comfy rooms.
In PAngong lake - Don't stay at the place when you just reach the lake. Keep moving for 6-7 kms, you'll reach Spangmik. If you want to live with less tourists and pay less Spangmik has better options.. say Rs 500 for a room for 4. and good lake views and comfy room.
Tso Moriri - There are 2 types of stay options mainly. 1 is home stay, very basic and other ones are costly tourist camps etc. I don't remember names, but it should be easy to find a homestay there. Everything is within 1 km range.
All the best for your planning.
Thankyou so much :)
ReplyDeleteExcellent blog...
ReplyDeleteI have one query.. can pangong tso to tso moriri be done in 1 day.. and approx how much hours will it take via man-merak-chushul route...
we r planning our bike trip in june last week, below is our plan.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a4t0xfuhthk5rb1/Leh%20Plan%20Only.xlsx?dl=0
any suggestions or comments would be helpful for us :)
Regards,
danny
Hi Danny,
DeleteIt can be done in 1 day, easy - 8-9 hours or so, it is really a good route, less frequented by tourists and away from honeymoon couples, families and foreigners a pure bliss for riders. Just start early like 6-6:30 am or so. Please paste your plan here in comment, I can then suggest. Thanks and wish you good luck for your trip.
Thanks punnet for confirmation... our plan is as below... it was in excel so i have pasted the stuff below..
ReplyDeleteWednesday 29-Jun 8.00 AM "Leave for Leh -> 240 KM (8 Hrs)
Few high passeson the way
Namika La (12198ft)
Fotu La (13,479ft) - Highest point in srinagar-leh Highway"
5.00 PM Reach Leh -> Find lodge
Thursday 30-Jun ******Acclamitizing and rafting day******
Permit for Marsimik La and other routes"
Friday 1-Jul 7.00 AM "Leave for Hunder -> Nubra Valley -> Turtuk 200 KM (10 Hrs)
Khardungla Pass(18,954ft) in Between
Hunder Sand dunes
search for river side camping beside SHYOK River and pitch tents before sunset"
Saturday 2-Jul "Explore Nubra Valley
Turtuk -> Panamik -> Khalsar 190KM (10 Hrs)
"
Sunday 3-Jul 7.00 AM "Leave for Pangong Lake -> 200 KM ( 10 Hrs) via Wari La and Chang La
Night Stay in tents (Pangong)"
Monday 4-Jul "Aim for Marsimik La 5680 m -> 50 KM ( 3 Hrs)
Explore Pangong Tso
Night stay at pangong"
Tuesday 5-Jul 6.00 AM "Leave for Tso Moriri -> 250KM ( 10 Hrs)
Spangmik - Man - Merak - Khaltse - Chushul-Tsaga / Chagga La -Loma - Nyoma - Mahe-Sumdo-Namashang La - Karzok
Wednesday 6-Jul 8.00 AM "Leave for Sarchu -> 220 Km ( 9 Hrs)
Tso Kar on the way"
Thursday 7-Jul "Leave for Manali -> 230 KM ( 9 Hrs)
Baralacha Pass, Rotang Pass on the way"
Your plan is good, add another day in Leh, its a beautiful place. You can check out the monastries, palaces, markets, cafes etc. All the best for Marsimik La, I have not done it yet. Share your experience once you are back.
DeleteThanks puneet for reviewing our plan...much appreciate it... the fact we have put only 1 day in leh is that, we have already been to leh in winters and have been to nearby monasteries... and we have limited days so decided to spend time at some place new instead...
ReplyDeleteIf we manage to secure the permit for Marsimik La... will surely share the experience with u... :D .. finger crossed :P
Cheers for ur help !!
Awesome man.
DeleteHi Puneet,
ReplyDeleteWe are planning the below route,
Leh – Upshi - Pangong lake - Tso Moriri lake - Tso Kar – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu - Manali
We are going this September. I am only worried about fuel stations on this route. We have 3 Royal Enfield Classic 350 bikes. How much extra should we carry apart from full tanks.
What would you recommend?
Thanks for the awesome post.
Hi Akshay, Classic 350 fuel efficiency is still better. But try to carry around 20 litres extra. You can get fuel in black in Pang, Sarchu and then Tandi.
DeleteBut carry a lot :)
Hi Puneet,
ReplyDeleteWe are planning the below route,
Leh – Upshi - Pangong Tso - Tso Moriri - Tso Kar – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu - Manali
We are going this September. I am only worried about fuel stations on this route. We have 3 Royal Enfield Classic 350 bikes. How much extra should we carry apart from full tanks.
Also I am sharing out itenary below,
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z8RxZ5kgnR703YYGFmKOSD3Q1Sqm_l_BFl17wOZ4GKQ/edit?usp=sharing
What would you recommend?
Thanks for the awesome post.
Hello Puneet,
ReplyDeleteI took Pangong Tso - Tso Moriri - Tso Kar – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu route, but not able to recall where changla fell in between..plz guide.
Changla comes when you come from leh to pangkongtso
ReplyDeleteChangla comes when you come from leh to pangkongtso
ReplyDeleteI read a lot of material and felt that the writing style was excellent for expressing exactly what I wanted to say, therefore I am impressed and would like to return in the future. I'd like to share something with you in a new article about CPS tester. If you are playing clicking games online and have any questions about What Is the CPS Test? or How the Clicking Score Is Calculated, I recommend you read this article because of all the answers in this article. You can also learn more about the cps test. Please take time to read it.
ReplyDelete