Gent & Bruges - Beautiful Belgium Memories

Before I began with my experience with beautiful cities – Gent, Bruges and Ostende in Belgium, I think it is important to let fellow budget travelers know about this website – carpooling.co.uk . I used this site to get good carpool to travel from one city to other in Europe and find it safe, quick and cheap. As an Indian, I had a natural instinct of converting Euros in Indian currency, and cost of carpool was cheaper than what I would spend in India on petrol driven car.

After reaching Gent in Belgium from Dusseldorf in Germany on a pooled car, first thing I notice were a huge no. of bicycles, some parked and some being pedaled. I thought about a while if I should hire one, but then I was not comfortable in keeping anything with me apart from a small back pack and my camera. So I chose to walk around in the city and very soon realized that Gent has a plenty to offer to those who chose their feet as mode of transport. I knew nothing about Gent or Belgium till then, apart from my local CS host in Gent. I met her at a supermarket and we purchased some food and after lunch I set out for a city walk tour.
Gent was more beautiful, friendly and lively than I could ever imagine. As I walked past a few cathedrals, canals and other old structured buildings, I reached Kouter – a grand square surrounded by old monuments and a canal passing through heart of it. The square is known as meeting point of people of the city. A little ahead and I could site 3 towers of St. Nicholas Church, which was an amazing site to watch in night. The lights gave all the monuments a special look. And on the other side of square was Belfort standing tall as a 14^th century castle.

I walked inside city’s famous and oldest cathedral – St Bavo’s and witnessed the grandness and the effort with which it must have been build.

I walked across a few other monuments and structures and captured the pics, but can’t remember all the names.  I learnt about canal route for exporting wheat and woolen clothes out of Gent on the trade ships.
By this time I was hungry again so I decided to try a few Belgian chocolates and then I had 3 local Belgian beers. All that I had was good enough for me to keep me walking again.

On my way back I casually reached the red light district of Gent, where semi naked women were trying to lure people from the show windows. I felt a little sad at that moment seeing the beautiful ladies behind the show windows in a set up made to satisfy lust of a man. But then, this made me go deeper into this subject and I will mention that in another blog here :
Prostitution – An insight into Indian and European brothels.

From there I walked to home of my CS host and we bought some Indian ready to cook food from a nearby shop that had a sikh owner. The place of my CS host was nice and she offered me a separate room on a separate floor and told me about her son who until a few years back used to stay in that room.
Some pics from Gent, if you are downloading any pic drop me a note, I will be happy to know people are liking the pics :

City square and beautiful canal

My trip to Gent was complete and before I could sleep I dropped an email to my wife back in India.


After having breakfast the next morning, I found myself in Oostende – a Belgian city located in Flemish province of West Flanders. Oostende was a small city standing next to North Sea which was set up as a town in 12^th century when fishing used to be a major source of income for the local inhabitants. Due to a harbor, it was always attacked and controlled. It was controlled by the Dutch, Austrian and was affected by British intervention in their trade with Africa as well. It was a cold day and I could see pets enjoying their day out on Sunday at the beach. I couldn’t stay long at the beach due to very cool breeze so I quickly sneaked inside a cozy bar to have some scotch. After visiting a few touristic spots I was out again in the train, this time to Bruges.

Bruges - often referred as 'Venice of North' is another canal based city with architecture ranging back from medieval period. The city was fortified to save from sea pirates. It is very interesting to know that earlier this city was connected to sea through canals which was closed naturally for a century and later a storm opened all canal links to sea. I reached here from Ostande and without wasting a moment was up on foot towards city center. One thing that mesmerized me most was the way medieval architecture is still intact and the way city is open to tourists. Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the government expects a lot of tourists and once I was there I didn't feel I am in new Europe, but in a very clean, medieval yet modern part of architecturally rich Europe.
I was suggested by someone I befriended in train to take a map and walk by foot, I did the same. A map that I took from tourist office at station helped me in moving between different monuments, forts and cathedrals. If you are visiting Bruges and have lot of questions, don't think about any and just be there and get lost in the streets of Bruges. I am sure you will agree with me that you are in a different era as long as you don't talk to anyone :)
After visiting a few monuments, I tried many Belgian beers and got high after having 8 or 10 different brand beers, beer was my energy drink that day to walk. I really loved the beers and would request beer makers of Belgium to launch some of their beers in India. All brands were new to me so no loyalty, but all were so good.

My second bullet is Electra 4s

How fool or cool it would be to buy another cast iron 350 when you have one? Everyone is running after new technology bikes but i laid my hands on a used electra 4s from a known person at a good price in an excellent condition. It is a 2005 model with gears on right. Another 4 to 5 k spending and this will be the best in its class. Below are few pictures, i am yet to do complete photography of it.

L

World's oldest trade

Prostitution – An insight into Indian and European brothels


Often labeled as the oldest trade in world, prostitution is a trade which is not always a topic of discussion among people. In various countries, it is legalized whereas in many countries in Indian sub-continent and Middle-East it is still considered a taboo to talk to prostitutes or to talk about this subject. My curiosity about legal prostitution in Europe made me draw some parallels between the way prostitution is carried out in Europe, and in India.

I will start with condition of brothels in India. Prostitution in India is sitting on a pendulum that swings it back and forth between boundaries of legality. Brothels are illegal in India, but no effort is made to eradicate them, although they are present in only a specific area inside a city or town. In ancient times, the kings used to have ‘dasis’ or slaves for satisfying their sexual desires and there were many places for men to enjoy sexually erotic dances. But prostitutes were never a part of society and there was no one to see their plights. Even after few centuries, the condition remains same here – The prostitutes are forced into this trade and once they give up, they are sold to brothel owners and are used for sexual business with customers. They often suffer and spread sexually transmitted diseases, they are considered as an unwanted portion of society, they struggle to get their identities or rights that any other Indian citizen enjoys. Often they are raped without use of condoms and they give birth to unwanted kids and this vicious circle never ends. For an example a brothel in Delhi charges 250 INR from a customer out of which around 70 comes to pocket of prostitute, 70 goes to pocket of pimps and brothel owners, 30 goes towards welfare of brothels or towards a temple set up inside brothel and rest goes to different parties for security, maintenance etc. There are several NGOs that try to educate prostitutes on HIV, they try to take the kids out from there for a better future but at the large the picture remains very sad. Many people in India call prostitute (randi) as a slang (gaali) but no one says anything to the customers who go there for pleasure. The alleys inside brothel are poorly lit, drunk people move around freely and aggressive pimps are present inside. All this goes on and on, everyone knows this is not good and must be either regularized or stopped but no government ever dares to stop this or regularize it or voice their opinion on welfare of those involved. A few cases how prostitutes in India possibly enter this field is:

· Neighbor in connivance with parents.

· Neighbors as pimps.

· Aged sex workers from same village or locality.

· Unknown person/accidental meeting with pimp.

· Mother/sister/near relative in the profession.

· Lover giving false hope of marriage or job, eloping with girl and selling to brothel.

· Close acquaintance giving false hope of marriage or job.

· Husband forcing wife into prostitution.

Now let me throw some light on operations of a brothel (known as landlord or place owner) in Europe.
I’ve had a chance to see and witness some in Germany, Belgium, France and Netherlands.
There are red light districts regulated by local municipality and government and the brothel owner rents out room to prostitute, where she can stay. Suppose owner rents out room at 100 Euros per day, there are show windows from where the girls try to lure customers by provocative gestures and showing their semi naked bodies. Now when a customer goes inside and pays 100 euros and she gets 2-3 customers a day, she is able to pay 100 Euros to landlord as rent and remaining is her profit. She has to pay a month’s rent in advance, which can be lowered to 10 days at many places and the day she settles her dues, she is free to walk out, still very much citizen of country enjoying all her rights. When she is living in red light district, she still enjoys all the benefits under labor law.
There are girls who often do this for a month or 2 in year as part time. Now the brothel owner or landlord is one who pays property taxes to government out of his income, he is one who makes sure of safety and security and if some customer tries to force himself in an undesirable way there is a legal system to punish him.
If the prostitute is not able to make money, she can give a notice, pay some penalty for early termination of contract and can very well leave the place.
Also, there are various sex shows that one can watch through peep window in one of those multiple live sex theatres. When I was walking in a lane in red light district, suddenly a door opened and a pretty girl smiled at me and asked why you are so serious, come in. Well I said – ‘Would you talk to me for a while’. And she replied – ‘Yes, I am talkative and can keep talking while having sex’. I was disappointed at the way how strange people must have asked strange demands while having sex, which has made these girls reply in a tape recorded manner without considering anyone as different from a prospective customer.
Well, a secondary search revealed that in eight European countries (The Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Greece, Turkey, Hungary, and Latvia) prostitution is legal and regulated.
But I saw it in France and Belgium as well.
So when you compare the above two styles of prostitution what one you think should be adopted?

There are people who say it should be stopped, I would not go into that debate of what is right or wrong. For Indian brothels, I would only say that either stop it or control and regulate it. There is no mid-way and if there is one, it surely passes through a lot of pain, rapes, diseases, poverty, slavery, illegal trafficking, rights abusing, and child rapes and should be stopped.
I am shocked by state of affairs of my country and wish this should change along with millions of other things of governance and administration.

Feel free to leave a comment.

Cheers!

The Route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake (Via Wari La)

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

Nubra valley, is a very common and known to all destination in Ladakh. One needs to cross Khardungla (37kms from Leh) at 18,380 feet followed by Khardung , Khalsar, Disket, Hunder, Turtuk on the left or Khardung, Khalsar, Panamic on the right.

If you want to take the road from Nubra valley to reach Pangong lake directly, there are 2 beautiful routes there for you without coming back to Khardung La.
Disket – Khalsar (after a few kms towards Khardung take left and follow board towards Agham).

Just after crossing Agham bridge you can see 2 routes. The route on left is to Shayok which opens up at Durbuk on Chang La – Pangong lake road. From Durbuk, Pangong lake is about 40kms. But this route is under heavy construction this year (2013), with river Shayok taking over the roads at many places making it a very difficult choice for motorbike riders. However, a good 4 by 4 with a risk taking driver must try this route.

If you take right after Agham bridge, you will start ascending towards Wari La, a very secluded pass in Ladakh. It is very common not to spot any vehicle or locals on that route except road construction workers . After you descend Wari La, keep moving towards Sakthi (or Serthi as on sign boards). From Sakthi, take left towards Zingral and follow the road to Changla – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik (on banks of Pangong lake).


So here is your route:
Disket – Khalsar – Left after few kms from Khalsar to follow road to Agham – Right after Agham bridge – Tangiyar – Wari La – Sakthi (or Serthi as on boards) – Zingral – Chang La – Tangste – Pangong Lake.


The above route near to Wari La involves good amount of off roading with almost no road and a lot of water streams on the way. I am sure, any motorcycle rider will love this route. It is amongst my favorite trails in Ladakh as there are very less people, almost zero tourists, not at all developed, no roads, less Dhabas, no BSNL signals, no shops, no villages. Only you with some wild mules, horses, yaks, sheeps and a few distinct birds of Ladakh and the adhoc mountains with blue sky in background and cold water streams under you on the path or trail leading to Wari La.

If you are a rider and still haven’t covered this route, don’t think twice, just add these beautiful 4 hours under your belt. If you need to know more about this or have any doubt, ask me. Cheers!
Some pics:

This is just after Agham bridge

Wari La - The mighty pass

Pangong Lake

 

The route from Tso Moriri to Manali-Leh highway

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!

If you are looking for the route from Tso Moriri to Pang (On Manali-Leh Highway), you have arrived at the correct post.

From Karzok (village on banks of Tso Moriri), take the road back towards Upshi, until you reach village Sumdo. From Sumdo, take left and follow the trail. After you have crossed around 100kms (it took me 3.5 hours on my motorbike from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar), you will see a beautiful blue colored lake known as Tso Kar.
So if you want to touch Manali – Leh highway from Tso Moriri without going back to Upshi and Tanglangla, here is your way:

Tso Moriri (Karzok) – Sumdo – Tso Kar (105kms)

Tso Kar – Debring – More plains (20kms). Take left on touching More Plains

More plains – Pang – Lachung La – Nakee La – Gata loops - Tanglang La – Sarchu – Baralacha La – Zing Zing Bar – Patseo – Jispa Camp – Darcha – Keylong – Gramphoo – Rohtang La – Manali.


One can chose to stay at Darcha or Keylong for the night, if coming from Tso Moriri via Tso Kar.

Alternately, for those in Leh, looking to do a nice circuit, here is your route:
Leh – Upshi (left from here) – Mahe checkpost (right from here) – Sumdo – Karzok (village on banks of Tso Moriri)– Sumdo (left from here) – Tso Kar – Debring (right on More plains) – TangLang La – Rumste – Upshi – Leh.
It is doable in a day, but my suggestion is to halt at Tso Moriri and enjoy the pristine, untouched beauty of Tso Moriri.


If you need to know anything on this route, let me know and I will help fellow travelers. Cheers.
Below is a pic of Tso Moriri :

 

Getting Permits (Inner Line Permits) in Leh

Year 2014:
Few rules have been changed in Ladakh, please find below changed rules on permits and motorcycling rentals:
1) Motorcycling Rental:

 

 

2) Permits: Indian citizens can use govt. authorized phot ids to several restricted areas without need of permit like to Nubra valley and Pangong lake. But do check this point once in Leh for confirmation. :)


I often come across people who ask me the process of getting Inner Line Permit from Leh for traveling to Nubra valley, Pangong lake, Tso Moriri and other areas in Ladakh.
Though the guest house owners and travel agency guys in Leh can get one for you but they charge 100-200 Rupees extra for a permit. Besides, for me, it is really easy to go to DC office and get a permit for myself. This post is intended for those who want to secure an Inner Line Permit for themselves by their own.

> What is Inner Line Permit in Ladakh and why is it needed?
Inner line permit is a document which is required by each traveler to go to certain places in Ladakh bordering China, it is a written permission letter by District Commissioner (Leh) Office for travelers to visit certain restricted places for travelers.

Inner line permit can be procured from DC Office, Leh, opposite to Polo Grounds. Below is the step wise description of how one can get it easily.

1) Go to photostat shop just on the road ahead of DC office. Ask the guy there that you need forms for getting yourself permits. He will give you a few forms that you can fill there itself with his help. You need to clearly mention the places you intend to visit like Nubra Valley, Pangong lake, Tso Moriri etc. and your name, address and father's name in one form for all your group.

2) Go to DC office, on left side there is a room. Just at the first counter give the filled form, duly signed by you, to the guy. He will go through it and if there is some change that needs to be done, he will tell you.

3) After he approves, he will forward it to next counter and you will be asked 120 Rupees per person as fee for permit. You will give them the fee.

4) After collecting fee, the person will forward your form to next counter and you will be asked for Rs 20 as Wildlife Protection fee, which you will give.

5) Then the form is forwarded to last counter (all counters in row), and the person will call you by your name and collect Rs 200 as environment protection fee which you will give. This Rs 200 is introduced from year 2013 onward.

6) You will get the permit, signed and stamped by DC office - Leh. After getting this permit you go back to photostat guy and get 8-10 copies of this permit and keep all copies with you. When you visit any place and you are asked by army/ITBP/police for your permit, you give them a copy there for their records.


This is a simple process, involving 350 Rupees to get an Inner Line Permit for an Indian citizen.
For foreigners, an extra form with photostat copy of passport is required in addition to above steps.

I hope you get the process and find this useful. If you still have any doubts in the process, do ask.

Cheers and enjoy your trip.

Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri

A small request to all: Enjoy nature, enjoy your travel but please don’t spoil MOTHER NATURE. Refill bottles, don’t throw plastic in water bodies or roads. Dispose your garbage at proper place. Cheers!
The best village to stay on banks of Pangong lake in my opinion is Spangmik, a beautiful drive of 7kms along the lake.
From Spangmik (Pangong Lake) to go to Tso Moriri, one has options - either to retrace back to Karu, drive to Upshi and take the road to Mahe from Upshi and right from Mahe to Karzok village on banks of Tso Moriri.
The second option, that is more secluded, more remote, more beautiful and with less roads, with less eateries set up for tourists, along the Chinese border is the road via the village Maan, Merak.


From Spangmik to Maan to Merak. After you cross Merak you will see Pangong lake deviating left. There is no road, no signboard present there. You just need to take the path a little towards right after village Merak. You will see a bridge on left, don't take it.

If you reach this point, you are on WRONG WAY. GO BACK AND TAKE LEFT ROAD

 Be on right side path and continue following that road. You will reach this place:

Distinct path seen on top of plateau, keep following

After you reach this place, go straight and you will reach Chushul village. Make sure you are not following road to village Parmar from there, else you will again get on wrong road to Tangste via Parmar.

At Chushul, get friendly with army guys. They will give you some instructions about not taking the road left even accidently :) as China border is near. From Chushul, keep going straight. The first village after 31kms is Tsaga village. There is one ITBP post named as Tsaga post. After Tsaga, you will reach Loma post. If you take left from Loma post (prohibited), you will reach very close to China. There is only one day in an year when you can go to Loma village - The birthday of Dalai Lama. From Loma, in night you can see China and the lights at Chinese post. Except that one day, for all other days, you will take the straight road from Loma and reach Nyuma. Nyuma is a comparatively bigger village with only 1 tea stall. So after Spangmik, Nyuma is the place where you will get tea and Maggi to eat. In between, there is absolutely nothing, so make your arrangements.
There is BSNL network working in Nyuma and a diesel fuel station (which remains closed most of the time).

From Nyuma, go straight, there is a bridge on left. Don't take it, get on your right side and cross Nyuma military base. Keep going straight to reach Mahe(another in Changthang area. From Mahe Check post, take left for Sumdo. From Sumdo, again left and reach an unidentified lake, straight from there and you reach KArzok on banks of Tso Moriri. There are options of homestay (not really clean), take your tent or stay in the tent accommodation there at lake side. 

This route from Pangong lake to Tso Moriri will require you have extra permits.
2 at Chushul, 1 at Tara, 1 at Loma, 1 at Mahe. So 4 extra copies of permits are required, in addition to 1 being checked at Karu and 1 at Tangste.
So from Leh to Pangong lake to Tso Moriri, you will require 7 copies of your ILP (Inner Line Permit).

And don't forget to mention in your permit places like Nyuma, Chushul and Tsaga.

If you go from Leh - Khardungla - Nubra - WariLa - Sakthi - Changla - Pangong lake - Tso Moriri route, you will require 9 copies of you ILP. So don't hesitate in taking photostats of your permit and extra fuel for 
your trip. If you have any queries on this route, leave a comment and I will get back to you. Cheers and enjoy your trip.

The beautiful way from Maan Merak to Chushul along Pangong lake

Tso Moriri Lake