DAY 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22: Kaza, Pin valley, Tashigang via Gete

Day 17: Monday, 8^th June’2009: Tabo – Dhankad – Kaza

After leaving Kaza, I headed straight for Dhankad. Dhankad is a naturally fortified town built on a rock structure. Dhankad monastery was closed when I reached, spent some time there before leaving for Kaza. After Dhankad, there is a road downhill which I took, and that road is not used much, it had lot of small rocks and I had to be cautious while driving.

Dhankad

Kaza, I had been there before so looked familiar, not much change had taken place in 2 years. I searched for a few hotels before finally settling down for Kesang guest house. It was run by a very candid man, and was in the courtyard of a Spitian home, with 6 rooms in total. I was the only one there, got a clean and carpeted room for 100Rs per night.

On Day 18, 19 also, I spent time in Kaza, around Spiti river and with the family of my guest house owner. He also owned a cinema (a small room) and showed movies of Sunny Deol, Mithun and ticket price was 10/- Rupees only. I used to spend some time at his shop and inside their home as well. They told me the importance of keeping animals on the ground floor so that hot air moves up and their houses remain warm in winters. Also they would stock up their stores for winter period. I was told an interesting thing about dogs in Kaza; during winters when Kaza is frozen and there are not much options of eating for animals, dogs hunt for stray cows and kill them before eating.

I also went and met the owner of an NGO - Ecosphere in Kaza, managed by 3 girls from Dehradun. They had a good reputation among locals.

In the evening of 18^th day, I checked my cash and realized that I was running out of money and there is no ATM before Manali. I called Vaibhav and asked him to arrange some money and ride to Kaza if he wants. I transferred to another friend’s account who gave 6000 to Vaibhav and he assured me he would reach Kaza in a day or two, though I was skeptical about his assurance. Met Javed and Zeeshan in Kaza, went to Rangrik to help a french guy whose bullet was giving him starting troubles, I just replaced his fuse and made a direct connection and for that French guy it was nothing less of rocket science. 

Day 20: Thursday, 11^th June’2009: Kaza – Mudh (Pin Valley) – Kaza

Pin valley, I missed this place during my previous ride to Spiti so was on my must to visit list. From Kaza, 15 kms back towards Tabo, there is a diversion for Pin valley from Attaragu.

From Attaragu to Mikkim to Guling to Sagnam to Mudh, Mudh is the last village on road. After Mudh there is Bhava top which can be reached by foot and then there is this famous Pin-Parvati trek which opens up near Tosh in Parvati valley.

Mudh village

 

I stopped at Mudh and there was 1 restaurant open, met that Israeli couple again. They were staying in Mudh. Mudh was very deserted and winds flowed there without any hesitation. It was cold for me; I wrapped up in a short time and headed back for Kungri Gompa in Guling.

After spending some time in Guling, I went back to Kaza. Just outside my guest house I saw a CBZ-Xtreme parked blocking my way inside. And suddenly, Vaibhav appeared yelling at me. “I told you I will come by 6pm”, I checked my watch, it was 7:30pm. “Ok, so you came with money”. Vaibhav nodded and then narrated me his 19-20 hour nonstop ride from Chandigarh to Kaza. He wanted to stay there for another day and then go back to Chandigarh via Kunzum, without a break. Vaibhav suffered from headache and he slept to leave early for Kibber the next morning. I wanted to go beyond so I thought I won’t go there, instead will wait for Vaibhav to come back and go there some other day.

Day 21: Friday, 12^th June’2009: Kaza

I woke up and Vaibhav returned back by 11 a.m. with Shamik, Shamik was staying in Kibber all alone and he came to Kaza with Vaibhav, we had a good time there, sitting and discussing riding and all.

Day22: Saturday, 13^th June’2009 : Kaza – Tashigang - Kaza

Vaibhav left Kaza on this day, very early, along with Shamik. I thought of going to Kibber and beyond. Spent some time in Kibber, it was very windy and Kibber was very silent place without network. 

Road to Key

In Kibber

Then I went towards Gete, there is no built road to Gete, just a path on the mountain, a fun ride for any biker. From Gete I moved to Tashigang and spent a lot of time there. Earlier Gete was considered the highest village in the world at a little above 4500 metre, Kibber is 4205 metres (13796 feet) and I found Tashigang also at a higher altitude than Kibber.

 

 

Tashigang village

Tashigang was last village on that stretch and was atop a plateau. It was so remote and unconnected and had only 6 families. No one outside his home, and like Gete, Tashigang was away from everything. Yet a solar panel made the houses lit. Tashigang was just amazing, the architecture of houses, the inner decoration, everything was unique and attractive. I went inside a home and spent a lot of time with 2 brothers. 

Forgot their name, but they told me a lot about how they go to school, what traditions, festivals are followed there. People were very simple, simpler than people in Kaza. They were not even making an eye contact while talking. I never thought I will get to see any such plaze in India.

On my way back to Kaza, I went to Ki monastery and had a ginger lemon tea there. But my mind was still stuck in Tashigang, for one instance I thought of packing my stuff and going to Tashigang for a few days. But that evening, I called home and parents were furious about me disappearing for so many days. And I got confirmed news from Vaibhav, who crossed Kunzum, that the road is clear. 

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